I will second Garey's advice. I use 100% DeOxit from the needle applicator 95% of the time. Just a small amount is effective and an industrial Q-tip can be used to take up the oxides dissolved by the DeOxit. But there are places were only spray can reach and there are instances were you can use spray with confidence.
Some guidelines: DeOXit 5% spray (the common stuff) is conductive when wet and non-conductive when dry. When dry it does not tend to collect nearly as much dust and dirt as the TV contact cleaners of old but you will notice a change in sheen where the carrier evaporated. Don't spray phenolic or other absorptive surfaces because of the swelling issue. Place a piece of paper towel behind the target area to catch the over spray and use a short spritz technique. Do spray the inside of carbon pots and let it run out as you work the control back and forth. After the DeOxit dries, finish off the job with Cai-Lube (another Caig Lab product) which will lube the wiper and carbon track so the pot stays quiet over the long haul. Dennis AE6C On Tue, Dec 8, 2009 at 5:40 PM, Philip Grocki <[email protected]>wrote: > *Greetings Drake enthusiasts:* > ** > *I'm somewhat weary in beginning to use Deoxit contact cleaner on delicate > electronic switches and the like for the mere fact that I'm afraid to spray > (or dab) not enough or a little too much of the product. In the instances > of hard-to-reach places, is thoroughly spraying a contact and just letting > it be good practice? Can residue be a problem? Can using Deoxit make thing > worse?* > ** > *Can anyone give some procedural steps in using Deoxit from past > experiences? Thank you.* > ** > *P. Grocki -- W8PSG* > ** > > _______________________________________________ > Drakelist mailing list > [email protected] > http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist > >
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