Thank you guys!

A friend of mine did it !!! He replaced the bias caps under my clever
supervision !!!!
Thank you Garey, without your help I would certainly have had the
polarity of the caps wrongly connected !!!! And thanks to Gary, I
liked very much your technique with the hot glue gun and we followed
your picture, it was very clear and we did a neat work !!!!

I finally tuned up the T-4XB, which now delivers about 110 W, not too
bad as a starting point!

73 CUL,

Frank IZ2OOS


2010/1/28  <[email protected]>:
> Be sure to discharge the old capacitors before working on the power supply.
>  Here is a link to some good information on the AC-3 and AC-4 power
> supplies.
> http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/TechTips/PowerSupplyTroubleshooting.htm
>
> Al, n7ioh
>
>
> On Jan 27, 2010, at 9:18 PM, Garey Barrell wrote:
>
>> Frank -
>>
>> The 200V caps would be ok.  Later versions of the AC-4 used 40 uF
>> capacitors for C5, so if you can find bigger ones it would be better.
>>
>> You must disconnect ALL wiring from the old can type capacitor.  Best is
>> to mount an insulated terminal (tag) strip near the can, soldered to the
>> chassis, and move all the wiring there.  You can leave the old can in place
>> for appearance, but NO connections to its terminals.
>>
>> NO, the two Negative (-) leads are connected internally and to the outer
>> can.  This is why the can has a cardboard tube over it to insulate the -100
>> VDC on it.  The two terminals "big" in the "center" are the Positive (+)
>> leads of C5 A and B.  Both (-) leads of the new caps, the "free" end of R5,
>> one "blue" transformer lead are all connected together with a "green" wire
>> going to Pin 9 of the connector.
>>
>> Once your repair is completed, I would strongly suggest testing the supply
>> without connecting to the transmitter.  This can be done by unplugging the
>> supply, inserting a piece of bus wire to connect Pins 1 and 2 of the
>> connector together.  Put a piece of tape or other insulation over the bare
>> wire to prevent accidental contact.  When the supply is plugged back in, it
>> will be  _ON_  so beware of exposed HIGH voltage under the chassis and on
>> the connector pins.
>>
>> You should see the following voltages, referenced to the chassis.
>>
>> Pin 10 (orange wire) should be 740 VDC.  CAREFUL !!
>>
>> Pin 11 (yellow) should be 300 VDC.  CAREFUL  !!
>>
>> Pin 9 (green) should be adjustable with the BIAS control from about -50 to
>> -100 VDC  CAREFUL !!
>>
>> These voltages are with the supply wired for 120 VAC.  Yours is probably
>> wired (or switched) for 240 VAC and these voltages may vary roughly +/- 10%.
>>
>> Be SURE and check the fuse.  It should be a 5 Amp Slow Blow for 120 VAC
>> and 3 Amp Slow Blow for 240 VAC.
>>
>> 73, Garey - K4OAH
>> Glen Allen, VA
>>
>> Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line&  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
>> <www.k4oah.com>
>>
>>
>> iz oos wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi Folks,
>>>
>>> I have 2 spare 400V 22microF and 2 spare 200V 22microF. The former are
>>> quite bigger than the latter ones but both types could be soldered
>>> underneath the old big can as there  is enough space. I would like to
>>> make things as simple as possible and mechanically durable. How would
>>> you suggest to place these newer capacitors exactly? Would you clip
>>> off all the three leads of the old can? Pictures would be greatly
>>> appreciated!!!
>>>
>>> The old can as far as I see contains both caps inside; viewing from
>>> the bottom one lead is the positive side of C5a, the lead in the
>>> center of the can is the ground and the third lead is the negative
>>> side C5b, thus, the connection between the negative  sides of C5a and
>>> C5b cannot be seen as they are connected inside the can, am I wrong?
>>>
>>> TU and 73,
>>>
>>> Frank IZ2OOS
>>>
>>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Drakelist mailing list
>> [email protected]
>> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Drakelist mailing list
> [email protected]
> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
>

_______________________________________________
Drakelist mailing list
[email protected]
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Reply via email to