Sidney Ho wrote...
>> 
>>> I've had a Newer G3/240/512kb die from (partially) heat related causes (in
>>> August, when temps could run 168-170F on the G3 CPU). Fortunately, Newer
>>> replaced this under warranty before they went bust. Ambient temperature, 
air
>>> circulation and the type of surface the 2400 is placed on are important
>>> determinants in heat transfer efficiency. I've added an aluminum block to
>>> connect the CPU directly to the aluminum pad of the lower case housing the
>>> convection tube.
>> 
>>Bob Friede replied...

Any chance of a step by step how-to?

Sidney replied...

>Groan...Well, as lazy as I'd like to be, it's hard to refuse such a direct
>request and actually a quite IMPORTANT modification.
>
>Heat reduction of the CPU is extremely important. The cooler it is the more
>stable it will run and the longer it will live. It will even run
>(un)measurably faster as heat increases conductivity resistance. The
>original 603e/180 mhz runs quite hot. The Newer G3/240mhz runs hotter. In
>winter, room temperature on a hard desk surface, I'm running 62 C / 143 F
>under constant normal load. A summer temperature might be 10-15 F higher,
>but I haven't monitored it so closely since I had to reinsert a G3/240 to
>replace my failed G3/320. I turned the backside cache back down to the
>standard 120 mhz from the accelerated 160 mhz. The latter does cause
>increased instability and heat while little speed increase is to be noted in
>the real world--or even with MacBench.  With no more 2400/G3 upgrades likely
>to be available, survival/reliability over speed becomes a paramount
>consideration. For reference, my own MacBench 4.0 (without LibMoto) tests
>scored:
>
>G3/240   at               120mhz               160mhz          backside
>
>Processor                     756                      783
>Floating Point               597                      598
>Disk                              308                      310
>
>The modification is actually quite easy, assuming you know how to reassemble
>a 2400c.
>
>1.  Disassemble and pull out complete motherboard (MB) and I/O power board.
>You will see an aluminum heat sink block about 20 x 20 mm x 2-3 mm thick,
>sitting on top of a hollow cavity, with a convection pipe leading towards
>the PC card cage.
>
>2.  Take some aluminum foil sheet, fold it repeatedly until it is about the
>same size (L x W) of the heat sink and about 1.5-2 mm thick (this is about
>the air space between the CPU and the heat sink). Compress this foil block
>to eliminate any residual air pockets and maximize its density, even
>crimping the edges with pliers (if necessary).
>
>3.  Glue (lightly) the foil block on top of the heat sink. The objective is
>to maximize the heat transfer efficiency from the CPU ASAP through the heat
>sink so the natural air convection can optimally dissipate heat buildup.
>Replace the MB and reassemble the 2400c. The CPU will then sit flush over
>the foil. I think this modification lowers CPU temperature by around 15 F, a
>big difference.

Thank you thank you thank you! I never would have figured this out 
alone...

Bob Friede

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