----- forwarded message -----
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 21:26:29 -0600
From: Teresa Binstock <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: organic cosmetics & shampoo: fact or fiction?

NOSB Member in Collusion with Floral Water Manufacturer to Institute Tap Water
as 'Organic' in Cosmetics
May Also Be Influencing California SOP Investigation

http://www.organicconsumers.org/bodycare/organic_bodycare_pr.cfm
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
(Downloadable Word Document version available here)
http://www.organicconsumers.org/bodycare/PR-061703l.doc

CONTACT: Ronnie Cummins 218-226-4164

Monday, June 16, 2003
Adam Eidinger 202-744-2671

NOSB Member in Collusion with Floral Water Manufacturer to Institute Tap Water
as 'Organic' in Cosmetics

May Also Be Influencing California SOP Investigation

LITTLE MARAIS, MN, June 16 -The Organic Consumers Association
(OCA) has learned that a member of the National Organic Standards Board
(NOSB), Kim Burton, has a financial conflict of interest related to her role in
establishing organic standards for cosmetics. The conflict stems from
NOSB's eventual recommendations to the US Department of Agriculture on
organic standards for cosmetics.

The OCA believes Ms. Burton's role as a consultant to Bayliss Ranch, a
California manufacturer of floral waters (hydrosols), demonstrates that she
has a clear financial incentive to institute the practice of counting tap water
from steam as 'organic' in floral waters. Under the National Organic Program
(NOP), non-plant water cannot count as 'organic.' Without clearly stating her
financial relationship to Bayliss Ranch at the Organic Trade Association
(OTA) Personal Care Task Force (PCTF) meeting in Anaheim, California in
March of 2003, Ms. Burton represented the position that added water from
steam in floral waters is accurately counted as "organic" in shampoos,
conditioners and other body care products.

This is in spite of the fact that the main active ingredients in these cosmetics

are cleansing and foaming agents in part or wholly derived from petroleum.
The NOSB is the public body charged with safe-guarding organic standards
and integrity. Since counting water from steam as 'organic' in floral waters is
a
transparently absurd and contentious issue, the OCA argues that an NOSB
board member has no business taking money from one of the interested
companies.

Furthermore, since the OTA PCTF will recommend organic body care
standards to the NOSB for NOSB's review and consideration, Ms. Burton's
relationship with Bayliss Ranch is particularly problematic. "Manufacturers of
floral waters, such as Bayliss Ranch, stand to financially benefit from watered
down 'organic' standards that will dramatically increase demand for these
filler ingredients," said Ronnie Cummins, Executive Director of the Organic
Consumers Association. "The clear financial gain Bayliss Ranch will derive
from Ms. Burton's support for counting water from steam in floral waters as
organic should result in Ms. Burton being prohibited from voting on NOSB's
recommended organic cosmetic standards." Ms. Burton subsequently pointed
out that she had stated in part at the March and May OTA PCTF meetings
that she was an "individual" who is "working with" Bayliss Ranch on
regulatory issues regarding floral waters.

However, this veiled reference did not indicate a formal financial consulting
relationship which would be clearly inappropriate for an NOSB board
member. The OCA did not discover the depth of Ms. Burton's relationship
with Bayliss Ranch until she forwarded a June 2 letter addressed to the Soil
Association, to the OTA PCTF. In this letter she discloses that she is a paid
consultant to Bayliss Ranch.

This conflict of interest is the primary issue and problem, versus whether,
when or how Ms. Burton disclosed her relationship to Bayliss Ranch.
Procedures outlined on the NOSB's website
(http://www.ams.usda.gov/nosb/conflictofinterest.html) state (emphasis
added): "That members of the Board shall refrain promoting for consideration
any material, process or practice for which the member is or would derive
direct financial gain arising out of such Board action.

The act of promoting such material, process or practice shall include private
discussion with members of the Board advocating the value of the material,
public discussion, and/or written advocacy. --more-- "A 'direct financial gain'
is defined as monetary consideration, contractual benefit or the expectation of
future monetary gain to a Board member including but not limited to financial
gain from a party who manufacturers, distributes or holds exclusive title to a
formula for a material or product, process or practice."

At the May 2003 Austin Texas meeting of the OTA PCTF, Ms. Burton
stated that the FDA considers water from steam in floral waters to be a
processing aid because this water does not have to be separately disclosed
on the label.

Upon further review, OCA has found that while the "water" in "flower water"
is indeed legally sufficient to disclose the water from the steam, the FDA
definition of an "incidental ingredient," which includes "processing aids," is
defined first and foremost to be "present in a cosmetic at insignificant
levels."
21 CFR 701.3(l)(1) and (2) The water from steam in floral waters cannot in
any shape or form be construed as insignificant, and cannot be counted as
"organic" when added to a shampoo. Ms. Burton also stated that the Soil
Association, the U.K. organic certifier, counts the full weight of floral waters

as "organic" in another product like a shampoo.

However, Maarten van Perlo, a certification officer who specializes in health
and beauty for the Soil Association, stated: "Hydrosols and floral waters are
considered water under the Soil Association health and beautycare
standards. They are therefore excluded from the calculations when
establishing the percentage of organic ingredients in a health and beautycare
product." Ms. Burton and/or Other Floral Water Consultants May Be
Influencing California SOP Investigation The California State Organic
Program (SOP) and the California Department of Health Services have
launched an official investigation into misleading 'organic' claims on over 30
body care products manufactured by Avalon Natural Products.

The investigation is in response to a formal complaint filed with the SOP on
May 5 by the OCA which highlights Avalon's false organic claims which are
based on their use of Bayliss Ranch floral water. Unfortunately, the OCA has
learned that Ms. Burton is not only a board member of the NOSB, but is also
a board member and 'alternate processing representative' on the California
Organic Food Advisory Board (COFAB), which directly advises the
California SOP.

In addition, there are other members of COFAB with financial links to
Avalon and Bayliss Ranch. Cummins stated: "We are worried that misleading
interpretations of Soil Association and government regulations may confuse
and corrupt the SOP investigation into flagrant violations of the letter and
spirit of the organic regulations." The added water in floral waters is
substantial, unregulated, and may well constitute the majority of the floral
water by weight.

Body care companies that purchase such floral waters for addition to their
synthetic body care products, do so in order to deceptively increase the
organic ingredient percentage. In actuality, they are simply diluting the
product with water. "Floral waters may contain some amount of organic plant
water that can be counted under existing National Organic Program food
standards as organic when added to another product, but only if that content
can be determined.

If this is too impractical, then floral waters should not count at all, as with
the
Soil Association," said Cummins. "Consumers deserve answers about the
percentage of floral water that amounts to ordinary tap water. This water
should not be counted when added to another body care product to make
deceptive '70% organic' claims." The California Organic Standards Act of
2003 stipulates a mandatory 70 percent minimum weight of
non-water/non-salt agricultural organic content in a product for a "Made with
Organic" label claim to be made on the front panel, and expressly forbids
synthetic ingredients not allowed under the federal NOP. The OCA has
demanded that organic body care standards should mirror the standards for
organic food products.

This means that: " Certified organic agricultural feed-stocks are utilized
exclusively, versus petroleum or conventional vegetable feed-stocks, in the
manufacture of the key basic cleansing and conditioning ingredients. "
Manufacture of such ingredients is reasonably simple and ecological. " The
toxicity of each ingredient is minimal. " Non-agricultural water is not counted
in any shape or form as contributing to organic content.

The OCA is a nationwide non-profit organization of 500,000 organic
consumers, deals with issues including organic standards, public health, food
safety, sustainable agriculture, and Fair Trade.

ORGANIC CONSUMERS ASSOCIATION
6101 CLIFF ESTATE ROAD
LITTLE MARAIS, MN 55614 USA
Telephone: 218-226-4164 • Fax: 218-353-7652•
email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
http:// www.organicconsumers.org


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