Marci - You must be referring to my original thread about IR camera recommendations for a bear project. I'm sorry to hear about your complications and frustrations with the Leaf River units. I would be interested in seeing some of your photos, however. For those interested, I will share what I ultimately went with this summer:
CUDDEBACK EXPERT 3.0 MP Price: $350 ea. for 16 units (we may have gotten a small discount due to the large order, but our units did not come with a free flashcard, as is advertised currently on the site) From: NATIVE OUTDOORS (http://www.nativeoutdoors.com/expert.html) - They've used a few of my photos from the summer on this site....since these were taken, I've accumulated many many more that are a little better. Contact: Mark Scheurer ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) - Extremely accomodating, friendly and patient! Overall, I am very impressed with these units, considering the price. The first time programming one of these cameras is a bit frustrating merely due to being unfamiliar with each option...but after a few, it becomes very quick and easy. In the field, I was able to check for images on my camera and recheck that settings were still in place within a matter of a few minutes. A very detailed owner's manual also shows each option and an actual image of the display on the camera that you will see as each option is set/chosen (I have several of these little booklets if anyone is interested in these cameras). The cool thing about the Cuddeback expert is you can set it to take video during the day (as long as there is sufficient light) and still take flash photos at night. As for image quality, I was pretty impressed. The still images are very clear (the flash did not wash out any images for the most part), however with the video, you do loose a little quality (the still photos are 3.0mp but the video is not nearly as clear). For my purposes, however, I was very satisfied. It depends, too, on how far the animal is from the camera. I did have a few instances where the camera didn't trigger, but a bear had obviously visited the site (hair samples present and a trash bin that looked like a great white had attacked it). It was difficult to set these cameras up single-handedly, so some of my trashbins ended up at the bottom of the camera's view. Therefore, I suspect that if a bear entered the site near the bottom and didn't move around much, the camera wouldn't trigger. If these cameras are going to be used to capture activity at certain sites, the camera should be centered as best as possible to ensure capturing any movement. But out of probably several hundred photos, I think I only had a few instances of false-triggering (could be due to blowing branches). My cameras did not come with batteries or any locking devices. It came with short screws to use for affixing to a tree.....I found these to be totally insufficient. By the time the screw is placed through the depth of the camera (through the hole they provide) and screwed into the tree, you're left with a mere inch and a half or two to screw the camera into the tree. My first two bears at two different sites knocked the cameras off of the trees, however they were undamaged. One had the batteries pop loose inside, and so no images were recorded thereafter. However, one remained in-tact and continued to take video of the bear hovering over the camera. I replaced these screws with 4.5-inch screws. Both of these bears returned and disturbed the cameras. One stayed in place but was swung upside-down on the tree....the other was again knocked off the tree. But the cameras remained undamaged and only incurred a little bit of occassional bear slobber. Marci mentioned the bear safe metal casing that Cuddeback makes for these, but I did not have these this year. As Marci mentioned, I can't really see how you would lock these units up without rigging up something yourself (perhaps using the metal bear safe boxes and drilling in your own holes for locks as she eluded to...). So, they are pretty vulnerable to curious hunters and the like. I have two hunters on video who detect the camera, but they left it alone. If anyone is interested in specific camera details or would like to see examples of some of the photos, don't hesitate to contact me. Kari Signor Graduate Research Assistant Wildland Resources Utah State University Logan, UT 84321 (928) 699-7643 _______________________________________________________________________________ Solamente cuando el ultimo arbol este muerto, el ultimo rio este envenenado, y el ultimo pez este atrapado entenderemos que no se puede comer dinero. Costa Rica - Pura Vida >From: Marci Johnson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Reply-To: Marci Johnson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: [email protected] >Subject: ECOLOG-L | Cuddeback and Leaf River IR-3BU Cameras >Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2006 09:00:08 -0700 > > Good morning, > > I had replied to an ECOLOG-L inquiry regarding remote cameras earlier >this summer by offering some information on the infrared cameras I was >about to purchase. I have since been rather disappointed with the Leaf >River IR-3BU cameras and thought I should pass on the following information >for those who are using or considering them. I intend to test one >side-by-side against a Cuddeback in October, for what it's worth. > > I had deployed seven cameras this summer for a MS project, including two >Cuddebacks with standard flash and five new Leaf River IR-3BU's with >infrared illumination. > > For the Cuddebacks, I purchased two "bear safe" metal boxes to prevent >damage in the field (best price from TNM Outdoor via eBay). Given the >tooth marks I felt this was a wise decision, yet they do not sufficiently >protect your cameras from theft. The padlock hole is too small for a >standard padlock, yet too large for a small one. The space left allows one >to lift the cover off. Using a large chain around the tree and in the >padlock, I am able to take up some of this slack and keep it from being >lifted without force. Nevertheless, one was pried open and stolen a few >weeks ago. For my remaining camera, I may drill a hole in the back of the >box to allow me to screw the camera to the tree with the Torx screw or try >to enlarge the padlock hole to fit different hardware. Regarding the >performance of the Cuddebacks, I have found decent quality resolution, >concurrent video and still shots, and only a couple false triggers from >sunlight. > > Wanting to purchase several more cameras, I decided on the Leaf River >IR-3BU simply because I could afford more of them ($265 vs. $400 each). >Photo quality was not a pertinent issue, though the night photos are much >poorer than I even expected for infrared. Feel free to email me if you >would like to see examples. I had to return two cameras because one was >damaged by bears and another had stopped working properly. The housing >looks like a Pelican case but the plastic used is quite cheap and brittle, >and I was charged $55 for the repair (which sat in their mailroom for a >couple weeks before sending it back). I have since mounted the cameras in >ammo cans for protection and am now cursing the power switch that is easily >turned off when resting in the box. When mounted directly to the tree, >some critters have pulled on the latches and allowed water inside. Most >importantly, however, is a warning to not trust the battery indicators on >these cameras. All three of my > cameras in the field had shown a good charge but stopped taking photos; >my tester proved the batteries to be low or low in the "good" range. I >have found the camera batteries to last about one month, but will now >manually test all batteries upon each visit. Overall they're more >affordable and fairly easy to use, but the quality and performance is too >poor to rely on. They also incur hidden costs of securing them, as mine >require three padlocks and a $10 length of chain per unit in addition to a >memory card and 7 batteries. > > How is it we've been to the moon but can't expect more from these Leaf >Rivers? > > Marci Johnson > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > Reply to Kari Signor: Infrared Game Camera Suggestions? > > Good afternoon, > > I have also been looking for a remote camera with infrared flash for >work with bears, and ordered five Leaf River cameras earlier today. For the ><$500 price range, I would suggest looking into the new Cuddeback No Flash >($400-450), the Leaf River IR-3BU ($255-300), the Recon Talon Digital >($350-400), Recon Talon Extreme ($450-500), and the Stealth Cam I230IR >(available by the end of July). The Stealth Cam, Recon Talon Extreme, and >Cuddeback models take color photos during the day and several models take >video at night, but no camera with IR flash is expected to take >particularly pretty pictures. Though the Leaf River was said to have a >slower trigger speed (up to 4 sec), I ultimately chose their IR-3BU because >it allowed me to purchase five cameras instead of three with my available >funding. The Leaf River cameras come with a mounting bracket that can be >secured to a tree (BYO chain and padlocks), Recon sells a $50 mounting >bracket, and the Cuddebacks fit a $32 (eBay) > lock box. Of those that have been on the market long enough to accrue >reviews I felt the Recon Talon cameras were probably the best in this >category, but a Stealth Cam representative stated the new I230IRs may only >cost ~$200. > > The quality of video recorded by these cameras can be poor, however, as >most capture frames rather slowly and at low resolution. I have used the >TrailMaster TM700V video system that offers an accessory infrared light, >but the cost is approximately $1200 per unit. If you do not need an IR >flash, less expensive alternatives include the Wildlife Eye and Penn's >Woods Video Scout ($229 not including camera, >http://www.pennswoods.com/VS-04.html). It is usually less expensive to >provide your own camcorder; the setups often work best with Sony cameras >and require a LANC jack. Using the night vision feature on a camcorder can >work within a reasonable distance, but the daytime footage appears green >and washed out. > > If you are only interested in the IR flash to avoid bears damaging the >cameras (versus a concern for spooking bears from the area), you may want >to consider putting a camera with a traditional flash in a bearproof >container such as an ammo can (cutout for the flash and plexiglass window >over the lens to prevent puncture) or building a structure around the >camera (see Camera Mounting at http://www.chasingame.com). From what I've >gathered, IR cameras do not produce the best quality photos and can exhibit >difficulties during dawn and dusk when the less sensitive IR flash may not >be triggered. If your bears are marked with small tags or need to be >identified by intricate physical markings, you may have more success using >an old fashioned flash and/or a homemade setup using your own top quality >digital camera (see >http://www.hagshouse.com/Hags%20House/Trail%20Camera%20Project.htm, among >others). > > Two websites with camera reviews that I found quite helpful include >Chasingame (http://www.chasingame.com) and Jesse's Hunting & Outdoors >(http://www.jesseshunting.com/reviewpost/showcat.php/cat/226). You may >also check out >http://www.whitetaildeer-management-and-hunting.com/game-camera-review.html >but be careful to note what year the cameras were tested, as many models >have since been improved. > > If you are interested, I can send you photos taken by a standard >Cuddeback camera and (after July 16th) those taken by the new Leaf River >IRs. Email: gulogulo73 (at) yahoo > > I have merely researched and ordered IR still cameras, but have not yet >used them. I look forward to hearing advice from others. > > Marci Johnson > > > > >--------------------------------- >Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out. _________________________________________________________________ Check the weather nationwide with MSN Search: Try it now! http://search.msn.com/results.aspx?q=weather&FORM=WLMTAG
