Hi there.While also not an expert, I would tend to agree with Wayne, below. Container grown trees are also likely to develop circling roots that can girdle the tree as it matures. This will not occur with a field grown tree. Here are a few papers on the matter of tree response to cultivation practices:
http://www.treelink.org/joa/2001/jan/05_FACTORS_AFFECTING_ESTABLISHMENT_OF_LIVE_OAK_gilman.pdf http://www.hriresearch.org/docs/publications/JEH/JEH_1990/JEH_1990_8_4/JEH%208-4-220-227.pdfPlanting an acorn (or a cluster of acorns) and then lightly mulching (no more than an inch or two) around the seedlings will in most cases give you a better, healthier tree. It will develop an undisturbed root system at the proper depth, will not have girdling roots, and if planted with material from near the parent will have a good chance of being inoculated with the proper fungi (which may be present at the site already).
In your situation, I would gather a handful of acorns, litter and soil, and take them to the intended planting site in the fall. I'd then bury them a few centimeters deep. After the first year (or the second), I would cut or uproot the weaker saplings. Many oaks can be coppiced (meaning that the root system will produce new stems if well established), so it's advisable not to let them get too large before cutting them.
If you do start the acorns in a container, the containers should be as large as possible, and the resultant trees planted as soon as possible. A healthy root system is extremely important for transplanted trees, as are proper planting practices. An excellent document on good tree planting practices is available here: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/636.html
Hope some of this was helpful! -matt On 9/17/2011 4:34 PM, Wayne Tyson wrote:
Thanks to McNeely for his post, and to Anderson for posting a summary of his responses. In my email to Anderson (not included in his list), I (no "expert" either) mentioned that in my experience, field-planting of acorns worked far better, in terms of plant performance, than container-growing (I explained my technique in some detail) followed by field planting. I have observed that the very brittle root initial penetrates the soil rather quickly and quite deeply before branching, while branching occurs in containers almost upon contact of the root initial with the bottom of the container or the air. This seems to retard the rate of root penetration to the capillary fringe of whatever passes for a water "table." I doubt that this is as much of a factor in sandy or other loose soils (alluvials) than in the firmer (clayey and/or rocky) soils with which I am more familiar. Am I again barking down the wrong root, so to speak, or not? Anybody have any references/links to real research or experience on this topic? WT PS: Following up on McNeely's comment about big mast years, when acorns are abundant they can be tossed in front of a walker, who then steps on the seed, almost perfectly pressing it into the soil surface. The survivorship curve is still steep with this method, but it does have the effect of producing randomness and feeds rather than deprives local wildlife. ----- Original Message ----- From: "David L. McNeely"<[email protected]> To:<[email protected]> Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2011 6:41 AM Subject: Re: [ECOLOG-L] growing oaks from acornsDavid, I am no expert on growing oaks from acorns. However, I have observed that most large oaks produce a great acorn crop. Multitudes of these, in a suitable environment, germinate and produce seedlings. Given that, if I were interested in growing oaks from acorns, I would gather large numbers of acorns, and attempt to propagate them under a range of conditions in both pots and greenhouse flats. Now, transplantation might be different. I would also contact native plant nurseries in the areas where I was interested in producing oaks. Most parts of the country have them. I know that "Sunshine Nursery" in Clinton, Oklahoma produces native oaks for transplantation to restoration projects, parks, and private properties. Steve Bierback, the owner mentioned to me on one occasion that he gathered litter and soil from under the parent tree when he gathered acorns, so that he would propagate the appropriate myccorhyzae with the seedlings. I have several post oaks and black jacks that I purchased as saplings from Sunshine Nursery on my property, so the owner's methods must work. These two native oaks, though abundant in the wild, have been claimed by some nurserymen to be impossible to propagate. Vines, Robert A., _Trees and Shrubs of the Southwest_, University of Texas Press, Austin, 1960, gives propagation directions for hundreds of native woody plants that grow in the southwestern U.S. Perhaps methods he gives for oaks could be adapted to your oaks, especially related ones to those he describes. Be sure to check under "Remarks" in his species descriptions as well as "Propagation," since he sometimes includes planting instructions under either heading. Storage overwinter in cool temperatures, and stratification at cool temperatures are both included for various acorns, according to Vines. Whether one propagates woody plants or not, Vines is a great book to have around. david mcneely ---- David L Anderson<[email protected]> wrote:Hello, I'd like to talk with someone who is expert at growing oaks from acorns. If you are that person or know of someone, my contact information is below, as are my interests and questions. Thanks, David I am interested in growing oaks from acorns collected from the "heritage" trees of Boise, Idaho. I refer to heritage trees as those trees of outstanding character and community value, usually of great age or beauty or serving as a landmark for sites of interest. My questions regard how best to propagate oaks from acorns. How do I know if an acorn is good or bad? Because it is green/brown, or floats/sinks when immersed in water? Is it better to overwinter acorns in a fridge/freezer in paper/plastic bags? Is it better to transplant them directly into potting/native/mixed soil? Better to plant in the fall or spring? In soil that is wet/dry/left to natural conditions? Should acorns be sprouted first in wet sawdust? Or other advice you think would be helpful. Thanks in advance from the future heritage oaks of Boise. -- *David L. Anderson**, Ph.D.* *Lecturer, Department of Biological Sciences* Boise State University 1910 University Drive Boise, ID 83725 208-426-3216 [email protected]-- David McNeely ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1410 / Virus Database: 1520/3900 - Release Date: 09/16/11
