Hi,

Eric ...thanks for sharing your knowledge with me. Seems like you have been
through all this before:)

Just a couple of questions. 

First I was talking about the eaves on the south side of the building.
Second I am thinking of a 12 over 12 pitched metal roof with a gutter system
for rain water collection.

Do you know what the angle of such a pitched roof is? is it 45%?

Like you said it's sometimes hard to "fit" heating and cooling dates for
optimum performance of both. OK if I choose a date of April 15 for shading the
south facing vertical glass what date would I use for the same sun angle in
the fall... October 15?

Next do I specify a particular time of day to derive  that angle  for my
latitude and longitude?

Ok. This is a metal roof so the overhang can't be too long else I'll have to
support it won't I?

If you used same angle on East and west eaves and vertical glass would this be
an OK solution , or would I be better served to change that angle for better
control?

<<I like the way our radiant heating has worked this winter>>  Can you tell me
a bit more about your system...Brand, cost, sizing...the more details the
better:)

<<but if I ever
built again I would keep things very simple, even primitive, because I'd
like to be able to make all of it and fix any of it myself and not rely on
factory made parts. >>  Huh? Are you unhappy with the RF...or are you more
concerned with possible future failures?  Do you have tubing buried in a slab?
Do you have a basement?

masonry Stoves

I had considered these but have found the real world costs far higher than I
had hoped. In addition it seems that system must be carefully built, and
engineered. Improper installation performed by inexperienced local workmen
could be a real problem. Too bad they are so costly, and complicatedc to
install I like the idea, and simple physics.

<<Timber frame was my first preference..but it seems too
> costly. And adobe  or strawbale in the humid southeast doesn't excite me.

Where does that leave you?>>  Well, I'm leaning towards insulated concrete
forms (ICF's) for basement, and side walls, structurally engineered panels for
roof. That should give me a well insulated, tight house with reduced labor,
and hopefully at a lower total cost.

Has anyone on the list used this system? I sure would like to hear your
comments, and recommendations.

<< I would recommend that you build something small and not so critical in a
method you think has potential and learn on that project before you build
you main house>>  Normally this makes good sense. problem is I'm under
enormous time constraints . We can't move until we get the house finished.And
we need to move down there as soon as possible. I'm in NY ...so that's a 15 hr
trip to the farm in  Kentucky. We had considered renting locally but it's not
really feasible in our circumstances.

Look forward to hearing from you and the list on designing such a passive
solar home.  Best to all.   Frank

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