For the last few months i've been thinking about and doing the initial preparation for a kitchen garden. The definition of a kitchen garden is taken from years of reading about ethnic gardening practices, from the permaculture zone concept, and from my past gardens. They all agree that a kitchen garden is as close to the kitchen as possible, its primary purpose is to supply the cook, and it is somewhat adaptable. I've added to those goals the need to be efficient in use of my time and that it be a form of art. Most of those goals are talked about often and provide enjoyable hurdles to jump while constructing the garden. The one goal that gives me the most trouble is the concept of art. Defining art, implementing art, and deciding if art is important are things most of us don't give much thought. If we feel comfortable in some surroundings or a place has magic for use we just accept it. We use trial and error around the house to see what fits and what doesn't. That's all most people do in the way of art. Recently i found two new books which talk about art in the garden and i've added a short review of one at the end of this. They seem to break up the design into components: paths, edges, structures, and plants. Another dimension is heights, colors, and textures. What i've found is that an awareness of these components allows one to recognized and duplicate ideas found in other gardens. This is probably more craft than art, but it is a beginning. Plant selection fits into many of these categories by providing the color, size, edging, and often structures. What i'm planning to do is start with perennials and form the garden around them. Here are some of my favorites: Navajo Blackberry. This upright thornless blackberry supports itself and grows with little care in this area. A few minutes of pruning turns it into a small narrow shrub. Hardy Kiwi and Grape vines. These take more work, but are ideal for letting spring sun in and providing summer shade. The fruit is easier to care for if near a kitchen window. The Issai kiwi is the easiest to grow. I've been trying disease resistant apples for a few years and still can't decide which one fits in a kitchen garden. The Liberty apple is very dependable and grows strongly. The Hudson's golden gem seems to fit this climate better and blooms after the frosts are over. Another favorite is the fig. It is low care if protected from spring frosts. It would be nice to have a low growing nut tree but so far i've had trouble finding one. Possible candidates are: yellow horn nut, filberts, and chinquapin. The low growing perennials, fruiting bushes, and bulbing plants are much easier to find and it is easy to play with these. If they don't meet expectations a new plant can be substituted. If anyone has a favorite perennial that fits zone 7 and ends up a useful kitchen tool then i would love to hear about it. Another interesting idea to explore is garden sculptures using plants. These can be small houses, arbors, chairs, or even scare crows. Some plants are more adaptable for this such as willows and alders. Interesting living fences can be constructed and this might be a good way to introduce the nitrogen fixing plants into the garden. My current plan is to try a living bench. ---- The Ornamental Vegetable Garden by: Diana Anthony 1998 Most of the book follows organic gardening philosophy with a mix of vegetables from around the world. Various beds and patterns of walks are used to transform the garden into art. The height of a plant and color are all considered along with garden structures such as small tipi's. Here is a summary of the design components described in the book: Use "Edgers" to outline beds and define patterns Low edgers - annuals which are useful, basils, beet root, marigolds, nasturtiums, kales, lettuce, dahlias, zinnias, strawberries. -perennials are: catmint, chives, thymes, sages, violas, violets, feverfew, lady's mantle, lavenders. Medium edgers - tall basil, bush beans, red cabbage, dahlias, zinnias, savory, phacelia, celery, beetroot, rainbow beet. -perennials are: lemon balm, lavender, savory, rosemary, santolina and artemisias. Tall edgers - annuals: broccoli, cauliflower, cosmos, lavetera, sunflower, amaranth, sweet corn, trellises or peas and beans. perennials: rosemary, rue, satolina, rugosa, soft fruit bushes, espaliered fruit, bay Use vertical accents for balance and groupings of various heights. Without support: amaranths, angelica, artichokes, asparagus, bay laurel, corns, delphiniums, brassicas, fennel, hollyhocks, cardoons, lemon verbena, rhubarb, fruit bushes, borage, berbascums. With support: runner beans, peas, cucurbits, tomatoes, climbing nasturtiums, sweep peas, grape, passion fruit, honeysuckle, climbing rose, sunflowers. Use color to create patterns Red, purple: amaranths, eggplants, purple basils, brussel sprouts, broccoli, cabbages, kales, kohlrabi, lettuces, red chicory, bronze mustard, red orache, purple leafed sage, yellow, gold: yellow leafed lemon balm, oregano, celery, rainbow beet, butter bean fruit, flowers of brassica, zinnias silver, white: artemisias, artichokes, cardoons, curry plant, lavenders, santolina, chinese chives, white kohlrabi, turnips, leeks, radish, white flowers, potatoes, onions. jeff
