that did it, thanks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Brindle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2004 2:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 LEDs Gone Wild
Roy;
Try adding several feet of coax between the tuner and the antenna and try
again. It appears you may have a voltage maximum occurring at the tuner -
adding the coax will move it out a ways. There are just some impedances
and feedline lengths that tuners have a difficult time handling. If, by
chance the antenna is open-wire fed, then add coax between the KAT100 and
the balun...
Note that the Bird will see different line characteristics than the KAT
because it has a different placement in the line, and thus different
voltage/current values at that point. It is the values at the tuner that
are critical, because they are what the tuner's LC circuits have to
match.
One other thing - the K2 gets the SWR from the KAT, so if the KAT's SWR
display is changing, the K2's SWR display should also be changing.
If all else fails, make a video of the display and advertise it on
late-night TV. Late-night viewers will buy anything these days, and you
just might get rich doing it!
On Nov 20, 2004, at 8:22 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I thought that installing MCU1.05 there would be ample RF sampling rates
taken to avoid erratic LED displays. The updated firmware seems not to
be the
solution.
With a 50 ohm dummy load on the KAT100 output only the leftmost LED
lights
up and K2 SWR is 1:1 regardless of power or band in use. With the
Carolina
Windom 80 attached to the KAT100 output and a Bird 43 wattmeter between
the K2
output and KAT100 input, I found the reflected power stayed at zero and
the
forward power stayed at max (regardless of band or power setting) while
the
KAT100 LEDs and K2 SWR reading were going wild. The wildest LED and SWR
activity occurs on 30 meters but does not occur on all bands.
I have already removed the white wire from pin 7 of the K2 end of the IO
port and put a .01 pF cap from the white wire to the bare wire on pin 1.
My shack is on the second floor (over my garage) and I have tried to be
as
attentive to grounding as possible. I use a common grounding point that
attaches to a 1/2 " copper pipe (used only for grounding) that goes down
approx 10
feet to an eight foot buried grounding rod. I believe the K2 erratic
SWR
activity will stop when the KAT100 LED stray RF problem has been
eliminated.
Has anyone made any changes or done any bypassing inside the KAT100 to
eliminate stray RF and tame the LED display? Roy Morris W4WFB
- Jack Brindle, W6FB, ex-WA4FIB
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