IMPORTANT!!! Please, do not use an analog multimeter for testing resistance
unless it is specifically designed for solid state. You didn't say so, but
many meters, including those that use a simple 1.5 volt battery for the Ohms
tests, can destroy a great deal of the solid state components in your K2!!

The older ohms scales were not current-limited, which means that if you hook
up the meter to measure resistance across a transistor junction that is
forward-biased, it will often destroy the transistor. That's true of
discrete transistors or one of the gates in the many integrated circuits
used in your K2. 

Voltage measurements with such meters may be off too, although it wouldn't
produce the sort of errors you saw on AC here. Before the modern DMM's
became popular, most lower-cost meters drew significant current from the
circuit under test to operate the needle.  In high impedance circuits where
only tiny currents are flowing, the readings such a meter may give you can
be grossly wrong, because the meter itself is loading the circuit. Back
then, only more expensive "vacuum-tube voltmeters" provided a sufficiently
high input impedance for such measurements. Nowadays, almost any DMM will
provide an input impedance in the 10 meghom range, which is pretty standard
now. That's high enough for decent accuracy in almost any circuits we'll
encounter in our rigs. Old Vacuum Tube Voltmeters (VTVM's) provided an input
impedance in that range too, so if you use one of those you will likely get
good readings everywhere. But, even the higher-priced VTVM's often used a
simple 1.5 volt battery in a fairly high-current ohms measuring circuit that
would destroy most transistors and integrated circuits.

The only safe way to measure resistance in the K2 is with a meter
specifically designed for measuring resistances in solid state circuits.
Even then, you may notice your resistance readings vary widely. The minimum
values are picked as value above that which any rig will show. You may find
too that the resistance will change radically when you reverse the leads,
since that will cause any solid state junctions in the circuit to switch on
or off. So you resistance measurements are fine and I suspect the voltage
measurements is indicating something wrong with the measurement setup rather
than the K2 since it seems to be working fine. 

Ron AC7AC

-----Original Message-----
Hello.

Hot on the heels of my previous report, here comes the next one relating 
to the first test phase.

Executive summary: it works! Unit came up with E10 as expected, display 
brightness and timeout setting are ok and led shines pretty brightly.

Digging a little deeper, however, there are a few details on which I'd 
like to hear your opinions:

-page 26, resistance checks: quite a few of those that had to be greater 
than 10k gave an infinite reading (U1 pin 2, 6, 7, 9-12 and 15; U3 pin 1 
and 8) and some of those that should have been greater than 1k were 
indeed greater, only very much so! (e.g., U1 pin 4 was 140k). Is that 
normal?

-page 28, ac voltage checks: I'm getting readings in excess of 20V (yes, 
volts instead of millivolts!). A cursory reexhamination of the boards 
confirms capacitors' polarities are correct and solder joints appear to 
be fine (i.e., not always beautiful looking, but reasonably good 
considering I'm

It may be worth mentioning that my friend Nicola IZ4FTB and I were using 
an AMM (yes, one of those old-fashioned cutie things with the fancy 
swinging needle ;-) whose battery really should be replaced, fast!

Next week, we'll get a DMM and repeat the tests before proceeding 
further, but in the meanwhile I'd like to hear your thoughts on these 
issues, especially considering that the little rig that could apparently 
does and quite fine, thank you! 8-)

B73,
Andrea.

P.S.: pictures will soon appear on my website.


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