Tim,
Now that you have determined that the A=B switch works, but the RATE switch
does not, you should check the other side of the switch matrix - do the
BAND+, BAND-, DISPLAY, MENU (also ANT1/2 and NB) switches function at all?
If they do not, check the path for /BANK1 to pin 6 of U3 for continuity.
You may want to just arbitrarily re-solder the pins of U3.
With power off, you can measure continuity between U2 pin 14 and U3 pin 6 -
it should be zero ohms with the RATE switch depressed and near an open
circuit with no switches depressed.
If all the above checks are OK, I would be suspicious of a zapped input (pin
6) on U3.
73,
Don W3FPR
----- Original Message -----
Jim -
Your thoughts helped in narrowing the question. The A=B switch does
function - so I pulled the rig apart and looked all around the rate switch
for any possible solder joint problem but saw none. For good measure
thought I reheated/soldered the 4 mounting posts for the switch. I also
checked continuity on the bottom side of the switch. In normal position
each pair of top and bottom solder points show continuity. If I depress
the switch and check continuity then the diagonal point also shows
continuity. Alas, the rate switch and lock still do not function. I shall
await with anticipation the words of Gary the Great One tomorrow :-) The
nice thing about electronics is that one way or another it all boils down
to something being "on" or "off" - ie anything is solvable. Sure am
enjoying building this K2 with a 4000+ serial number. My first was in the
early 2000's and did not have all the mods nicely built in to the kit!
Thanks for the input Jim.
73/Tim NZ7C
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