>causes my brain to lock up).  But, more basically, what to "say"?  What
>exactly is a CW QSO?


After the "essentials" are over with, good QSO starters (and commonly exchanged 
info) are how long you've been a ham and/or what you do for a living. These 
last two tidbits of info have often led to long QSOs...great for building code 
proficiency.

Have fun & welcome to the hobby,

John Harper AE5X
http://www.ae5x.com/blog



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