Hi Stan WB2LQF, IN the event that you may decide to do an isolated cleaning of some area of flux that is particularly nasty, then I can definately reccomend this channel on Youtube - it contains loads of good instructions and step-by-step guides to proper work on and around PCB's and components:
http://www.youtube.com/user/SolderingGeek#p/u In regards to the cleaning of a PCB, as also Don W3FPR was so correctly pointing out, DO NOT splash this all over your board like its' a bottle of after shave, but rather deposit in small areas with only trace amounts of alcohol at the time. You may find a cotton swab a suitable and more gentle alternative to a brush. You can see in an example here (timestamp 3:58) how this can be performed. http://www.youtube.com/user/SolderingGeek#p/u/37/G14rFgAfwXk 73 - Brian OZ2BRN Den 08-09-2010 20:22, Don Wilhelm skrev: > Stan, > > Do NOT attempt to remove the flux - it is not conductive and will cause > no problems, even though it may look slightly "messy". > In fact, attempts at removing flux can result in unanticipated > problems. If the flux residue plus solvent gets under connector headers > or relays, or even ICs, it will not be completely removed and the > residue left in those places can later make conductive paths where they > should not be. I did work on one K1 that had been completely ruined by > an attempt at removing the flux. > > If you must clean a board, do it in small areas - do NOT flood the board > with the solvent (yes, use de-natured alcohol, acetone can etch plastic > components) - apply the solvent sparingly in a small area at a time, and > blot it off with a paper towel. Alcohol attracts water from the air > rapidly, and the reduced temperature of the board caused by rapid > evaporation will cause the water to condense on the board - wipe it up > too, but do not apply power until it has completely dried. > If you feel you must remove the flux, build up a small board (like the > RF Probe from the parts provided in the K2 kit), and practice your flux > removal technique on that first so you know what to expect. > > If you want to avoid a large flux residue, use a solder with a mildly > reactive flux, such as Kester 285. While Kester 44 is much better know, > it has a highly reactive flux and leaves much more residue than the > mildly reactive flux. Save the highly reactive flux for soldering jobs > that have noticeable oxidation on the surfaces. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > On 9/8/2010 1:43 PM, stan levandowski wrote: >> I've been told that it is good practice to clean a completed PC board >> with either acetone or denatured alcohol and a small toothbrush. >> >> I could not bring myself to do this when I completed my KX1 - it just >> seemed (at least to me) somewhat risky to be brushing a liquid with a >> nylon toothbrush all over a populated board. >> >> Now I'm faced with the same issue as I begin my K2. I want to do >> "everything right" because this K2 is going to be my "baby" -- but..... >> >> So I am asking for some opinions on just what the risk/benefits are and >> perhaps to get some idea as to whether this is really a practical and >> useful process or a "purist" finishing touch that returns marginal bang >> for the buck. >> >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >> > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[email protected] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[email protected] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
