I also recommend running a dedicated 220V circuit to the shack for your amp(s) 
I was plagued with the lights dimming, etc and after
having to reset circuit breakers a few times decided I had to do something !  
Yes, some work involved running the romex 
cable thru the attic, etc but well worth it. 

Bob
K6UJ



Bob
K6UJ
On Feb 16, 2011, at 8:35 AM, Scott Ellington wrote:

> Actually, the percentage voltage drop at 120 V is FOUR times that at 240 V. 
> (For the same power, wire gauge and length.)  Since the KPA500, like most 
> tube-type amplifiers, uses an unregulated power supply, the extra drop can 
> significantly reduce output.  For example, suppose the amplifier can put out 
> 500 W with a perfectly regulated input of 120 or 240 V.  Say the line 
> voltage, at 240 V, drops 6 volts at full output.   That's a 2.5 percent drop, 
> which reduces RF output by about 5 percent, to about 475 W.  At 120 V, the 
> drop is 12 volts, 10 percent, which reduces the output by about 20 percent, 
> to about 400 W.  You just lost 75 more Watts, each of which cost you $4.
> 
> Keep in mind that 500 W output requires about 1 kW input, that the power 
> factor of the power supply is considerably less than 1, and that the high 
> peak currents make the effects of line voltage drop even worse.  When 
> calculating effective line drop for the KPA500, I would use something like 2 
> kVA, about 17 A at 120 V. The above example corresponds to a run of 220 feet 
> of AWG 12 (440 feet total), admittedly a very long run.
> 
> Bottom line:  If you are adding wiring, use 240 V.  Run the amplifier on 120 
> V only if you have no choice, or if the run from the distribution panel is 
> under about 50 feet.
> 
> 
> Scott  K9MA
> 
> 
> On Feb 15, 2011, at 6:25 PM, K4SC wrote:
> 
>> If I were going to the trouble to pull the wire, I'd run 220V.  You give
>> yourself the option of using a heavier amplifier in the future, and less
>> voltage drop (twice as much on 120V).  
> 
> Scott Ellington
> Madison, Wisconsin
> USA
> 
> 
> 
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