I just tried FLDIGI recently and liked it very much.   I like that it is a
truly cross-platform program so that no matter what type of computer I am
using - Linux, Windows, etc.- I have a program with the same interface to
use.

I recommend the Belkin F5U409 USB to Serial adapter.   I have used this for
years without any problems.   Unlike some USB to Serial adapters, this one
provides all the serial lines and the full protocol.   It usually can be
found for $25 or less.  On my Ubuntu 10.04 system, this adapter is picked up
plug and play without having to install anything and presents itself as
/dev/ttyUSB0.

73,
Bill - WA5PB






On Tue, Mar 8, 2011 at 01:13, John Ragle <tpcj1...@crocker.com> wrote:

> As has already been mentioned, SignaLink/USB has no provisions for rig
> frequency control. Also you should note that DigiPan itself has no
> provisions for rig control. If you are content to adjust frequency
> manually then DigiPan is a very nice, /simple(!),/ program, perfectly
> adequate for BPSK31 QSO's. DigiPan will run on almost any kind of Intel
> computer, from "pencil sharpener" to mainframe.
>
> If you want more control, I highly recommend FLDIGI over the several
> other available programs. Its interface is very straighforward, and the
> screen is not crowded. I've used almost every program available, whether
> free or not, and have settled on FLDIGI as the best, *no-compromises*,
> one to use. It is now in Ver. 3.21.4, installs easily, and is kept
> up-to-date. Google for the FLDIGI download site. The one downside to it
> (a minor one) is that the waterfall is not very high on the screen, so
> if you like a tall waterfall, you will be annoyed by this at first. You
> can always run Spectravue simultaneously with FLDIGI if you want more
> viewing turf. This quirk of FLDIGI is much more than offset by the
> variety of modes available!
>
> The one detail to which you will have to attend is making a serial
> connection from your computer to your transceiver. If your computer is
> an older model, it will have COM ports available. The K3 also has a
> matching COM port, and the problem devolves to finding a cable. IF, on
> the other hand, your computer is a newer model, it will probably NOT
> have COM ports built in. You then have two choices: (1) buy a simple,
> inexpensive card that fits inside the computer on the mother board,
> comes with drivers either already in Windows or on a CD or mini-CD, or
> (2) to use a USB-2.0 to Serial adapter. In this last case, beware! as
> many of the commercially available USB-to-serial adapters will NOT work,
> for various reasons. Be prepared to buy an "industrial-strength"
> USB-to-serial converter, or better stilll, buy the one that Elecraft
> offers (it comes with a guarantee to work!).
>
> Good luck. Feel free to email me if you have further questions. Everyone
> was a newbie at the beginning.
>
> John Ragle -- W1ZI
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