I have to admit that I am not a fan of APP's either. I just cannot relate to the voltage drop across the connectors when drawing 20+A. On my rig (with its factory built cable) it approaches 1.2 Volt. (And yes, the connectors do get warm!) Even with decent cables that I have made using 4mm wire and 45Amp PP connectors I still see .6 to .8V drop. That to my mind is not acceptable. So, once the warranty expires on my K3 (in May) I am going to ditch the APP's and solder a fly lead of 4mm twin lead wire directly to where the APP's were or look at some (better) alternatives.
Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF Elecraft K3 # 4257 ----- Original Message ----- From: Ron D'Eau Claire To: [email protected] Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 7:55 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector At the risk of re-energizing an old debate, I have *never* crimped a PowerPole connector and have *never* had a problem. All of mine are soldered just as Elecraft recommends if you don't have the correct crimp tool. In the APP Power Supply Cable Kit instruction sheet is a detailed cut-away drawing of how the APP connector contacts insert into the shell and lock for solid, reliable contact. Ron AC7AC -----Original Message----- I guess my problem is: after reaching a certain age I have developed a bag full of skills, which have served me very well for over a half century. Installing small connectors is a piece of cake, that is until I came against the APP. Didn't think needed to read the instruction sheet. After all, I should be able to correctly install this with my bag of knowledge, right? Now that I have achieved a higher level of connector expertise, I still prefer the Molex, but that's me. Also, something about having to buy a $30 crimper to do the right job tends to rub me in the wrong direction as well. Thanks for the bandwidth. BillHarris-w7kxb/7 (long live the KISS principal) > From: [email protected] > Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 12:31:14 -0700 > To: [email protected] > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Shut Down Resolved! > > When making up APP connectors, you have to be VERY sure that the little lip on the connecting pin (the part that's soldered onto the wire) extends completely into the plastic housing so that it locks itself over the metal part inside the plastic housing. Viewed from the side it looks something like this: > > =============\ > ------------- \ > > where the double line (string of = signs) represents the connector that's soldered onto the wire, the diagonal slashes represent the lip at the end of that connector, and the single line of dashes represents the metal part of the plastic housing. If you can pull the wire out, it ain't locked in place. > > Once I realized this, I have never had a problem with APPs. > > > Lew K6LMP > ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[email protected] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[email protected] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[email protected] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
