Chuck,

Did you ever increase the value of R98 on the bottom of the RF board to 
keep the power from oscillating?  If so, you have now removed the 
additional gain of the KPA100 and may need to restore the original value 
of R98.  Remove the bottom cover and check the value of R98 - if it is 
greater than 270 ohms, change it.

If that is not the problem, read on ---

Often a drop off in power on the higher frequency bands is traced to a 
problem with the Transmit Buffer U9.  First be certain Q20 is doing its 
job - measure the DC voltage a U9 pin 3 - it should be near your power 
supply voltage during receive and then half that value during transmit.  
If it stays at the higher voltage, the Q20 has failed.

The next thing to try is re-flowing the solder with a hot (750 degF) 
soldering iron.  Look at the schematic for the RF Board sheet 2 in the 
left center of the sheet to identify the components involved - re-solder 
those.

If those steps do not solve the situation on the 17 through 10 meter 
bands, you will have to do some signal tracing to find out where the 
fault is.  Turn to Appendix E page 14.  You will *not* be following the 
instructions for signal tracing that appear in the manual, but the list 
of points to check are shown starting halfway down the left column.

Set the power knob to 10 watts and leave it there throughout the 
following tests.

You will be comparing the RF voltage at each of those points for all 
bands 20 meters and above.
Since 20 meters gives you normal output, that is your "standard" band.  
Do not expect to see the RF voltages that are listed in the manual as 
"expected voltages" - you are doing this differently.

While doing this exercise, keep in mind the way the K2 controls power.  
It reads the power at the output, compares that to the requested power 
and controls the drive (by increasing/decreasing the BFO injection into 
the Transmit Mixer).  What that means is that on a band where the power 
output is lower than the requested value, you should see a higher RF 
voltage that that seen of a good working band - a higher RF voltage 
means the stage is working.  When you get to a stage where the RF 
voltage is *lower* than the voltage on the "good" band, you have found 
the failure point.

I doubt anything I have said above will lead you to a solution for the 
160 meter band - I would believe that is a different problem, so figure 
out what is going on for 17 thru 10 meters first, and then you can 
attack the 160 meter problem.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/21/2012 6:50 PM, Chuck Teague wrote:
> I just finished installing the KAT2 and in testing discovered that power
> output begins dropping on 15 mtrs. I removed the KAT2 and tested the plain
> K2 into a dummy load, with the same results.  I redid the transmitter
> alignment but it didn't change the results, which are, with a 10 watt
> setting:
> 80 mtrs: 10 watts
> 40 mtrs: 10 watts
> 30 mtrs: 10 watts
> 20 mtrs: 10 watts
> 17 mtrs:  8 watts
> 15 mtrs:  3 watts
> 12 mtrs: 1.5 watts
> 10 mtrs: 1.5 watts
> 160 mtrs; 1 watt
>
> There is no high current with any of these readings--it is about what you
> would expect for the power output listed.  An external meter between the
> radio and dummy load confirms the K2 internal meter. It appears that the
> drive is tapering off, but I'm at a loss for what would cause that.
>
> Power supply is 13.8 volts, indicating 13.3 on K2 display and never dropping
> below 13v.
>
> This is a pretty much loaded radio with SSB, DSP, NB, 160 meter
> option--pretty much everything but the KIO2, 60 meters and transverters, and
> has been in use as a K2/100 for several years delivering expected output on
> all bands.  I just recently pulled the KPA100 out of it to convert it back
> to QRP.
>
> Where do i start and what do I look for?
>
>

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