I have encountered this problem...It is a problem even with conventional 60/40 solder if the joint you are trying to de-solder is on the ground plane...Desoldering the joint, then resoldering it with 60/40, then desoldering it again helps a lot to remove the solder on the other side of the board..Use caution not to dwell too long on the joint lest the land be damaged...
Jerry, wa2dkg >Ron made several good points, but I want to add another - I have done repair work on 2 K2s to date that used lead-free solder, and I can tell you that de-soldering that stuff is no fun - even with my Hakko 808. Sure the solder sucks off the side the Hakko is on, but the solder itself apparently does not conduct heat very well, so after every de-soldering attempt, I had to reheat the lead from the component side and remove the component (being careful not to injure the plated thru hole), and then use a stainless steel needle to open the hole for replacement component.< _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [email protected] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
