I agree, the KAT2 is the bomb!

Sent from my iPad

On Mar 10, 2013, at 10:04 AM, Don Wilhelm <[email protected]> wrote:

> Don,
> 
> Welcome to the Elecraft list.  You must be posting properly, your post made 
> it to the list.
> 
> When you hold the TUNE button, there is only a brief 'beep' not a tone.
> 
> During a TUNE, the basic K2 (no KAT2) displays the power output as measured 
> with a simple diode RF detector.  That power level will only be correct if 
> the K2 is operating into a load impedance of 50 ohms pure resistive.  The 
> variation as you move across the band is due to variation in the actual 
> impedance of your antenna as seen at the shack end of your transmission line.
> 
> But OTOH, the K2 will attempt to control power at whatever level is set on 
> the Power 'requested' knob, so if you are set to 10 watts, the K2 will try to 
> adjust the drive until the RF voltage from the RF detector is equal to that 
> power level driven into a 50 ohm pure resistive load.  SWR into your feedline 
> will affect the actual power developed by the K2.  An 80 meter antenna will 
> have a significant change in SWR over the band.  You may have to retune the 
> Z100 frequently when moving across the band to allow the K2 to properly 
> control the power.
> 
> For tuning your Z100, holding the TUNE button will transmit at whatever power 
> level is set on the power knob, so the maximum power that your Z100 tuner 
> should have during a tuning cycle sets the limit.  Set that power level with 
> the Power knob.  After tuning, set the power to your desired operating power. 
>  During the time the Z100 is tuning, the power out indication may vary all 
> over the board as the SWR is constantly changing while the tuner seeks a low 
> SWR.
> 
> The addition of a KAT2, KPA100 or KAT100 will provide better power control 
> with your K2 because those options contain wattmeters (as opposed to a simple 
> RF voltage detector) which remove the SWR dependency from the power control 
> operation.
> 
> The bottom line of all this is that the K2 controls power differently than 
> your prior transceivers.  The K2 tries to measure the actual RF output and 
> computes what it 'thinks' is the power into a 50 ohm resistive load, then 
> adjusts the drive to bring the output up to what you have requested.  Most 
> other transceivers simply adjust the drive to the PA and let it go at that.
> 
> With the antenna that you have, you should consider the addition of the KAT2 
> (or if you are considering a future addition of the KPA100, use the KAT100),  
> The built-in wattmeter make tuning antennas much easier.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> 
> On 3/10/2013 8:20 AM, bukar wrote:
>> I hope that I am posting this properly, if not please correct me. :-)
>> 
>> I am the new owner of K2/10 #5001. I am more used to tuning up the hybrid 
>> Kenwoods so while I am looking forward to moving to this more modern radio I 
>> have some questions.
>> 
>> I think that I must have toggled something off as I no longer can get a tone 
>> when I push the "tune" switch on and off. It was working but I was in the 
>> menus and fear I have done something to cause this.  I can't find the page 
>> in the manual to correct this. Any suggestions?
>> 
>> Also, when I tune the radio with my LDG z100 tuner  should I dial back the 
>> power on the rig to 3-2 watts before tuning, get a match and then go back to 
>> 10 watts?
>> 
>> I don't understand the read out I get on the display.  The Po number that is 
>> displayed after the tune up, is that the recommended max power to use at 
>> that particular match? I am trying to keep my power out to 10 watts but some 
>> matches even a few kelos apart will display a Po reading from 15 to >5 as I 
>> tune across the band.
>> 
>> I am using the rig SSB into a 80 meter dilpole at 40 feet.
>> 73
>> Don Bukar
>> KJ4RQV
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