Todd,
I am not going to "weigh in" on anything you said. In the case of APF,
the instructions by your very Zen instructor may the best appropriate
answer.
Before you need to use it, give it a try on some weak signals and play
with the width and shift controls until you get a feel for it. It will
not seem to work very well on signals that can be copied without the
APF, so concentrate on the weak ones.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 3/16/2014 6:33 PM, todd ruby wrote:
I have received 2 inquiries about how to use the APF. Well, I’ll put it to you
this way. I used to be a photographer and used a 5X7 view camera. The image on
the viewing glass was upside down, both the front (lens board) and rear (view
glass) board swiveled from side to side and up and down. It was very
frustrating for a 20 year old perfectionist to figure out how to manuever
either of the boards together or individually to get the desired image. My
teacher was very Zen about it. He said “F….k with it until it looks right.
Basically this is what I did to pull in Zorro in Myanmar who was a hair above
the noise level. Every time I used the APF previously I got too much ringing
and couldn’t hear the signal I wanted to zero in on. Truly, today it was a
matter of opening up the width and lowering the shift to get rid of the ring,
then playing with the two until I could hear his signal at its best. Switching
back to the regular roofing filter (400 hz) didn’t cut it. The APF isolated
Zorro enough to copy him Q5.
So my answer and my future technique will rely on messing with both the width
and the shift until you can get rid of the ring and eke out the signal.
I am sure Don Wilhelm, Wayne and Jim Brown will weigh in on me being overly
simplistic but it worked for me and we are both in each others log!
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