Lenny,
I would not think a capacitor across the key would make much
difference. There are other choices - read on.
First of all determine whether the keyclicks are caused by
RF-in-the-shack or not (so you do not go chasing the wrong gremlin).
Operate the K2 (and any amplifiers you may have been using) into a dummy
load while monitoring on another receiver with a wire for an antenna -
space the wire from the dummy load to give an S-9 signal into the
monitor receiver.
Do you hear keyclicks? If not, then look for the mentioned cures for
RF-in-the-shack.
If the K2 (and any amplifiers) still have keyclicks, then I have to ask
what is the serial number of the K2? If it is below SN 4060, it may not
have the keying waveshape mod installed.
If you do have the keying waveshape mod installed, *or* the serial
number is greater than 4060, you likely have a problem with the K2
keying area.
(Note that there are a lot of *ifs* in the statements above - observe
them carefully before digging into your K2).
Currently, the K2 Keying waveshape mod is not available from Elecraft
because the PIN diode that was used on the RF Board is no longer available.
The new K2s use an SMD PIN diode on a carrier board in place of the
original PIN diode.
I have the older K2 keying waveshape mod instructions on my computer and
can email it to any interested parties along with the part number and
information about how to install the SMD PIN diode if you send me a
direct email. I would post the instructions on the reflector, but the
reflector will not accept attachments for the original instructions.
HISTORY - the basic K2/10 did have some keyclicks that were not
troublesome until an amplifier (namely the KPA100) was added which also
amplified the keyclicks. The K2 Keying Waveshape Mod was designed to
eliminate those keyclicks. The first K2 with that keyclick mod added to
the design was SN 4060.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 6/6/2014 12:09 PM, w2bvh wrote:
On my K2 Is it ok to put a 1 - 10 nF bypass cap across my straight key?
I've got a 6M KW amp and evidently rf was getting into the key line at
power levels over ~350 W and keeping the system keyed all the time.
Three turns on the keying wire (mini zip cord) through a split bead
fixed it, but I'm getting on air comments about key clicks. I'm going
to switch to RG174 on the key and intend to add 1 - 10 nF across the
key terminals, if its not harmful to the K2.
73,
Lenny W2BVH
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