One more quick follow-up.
The new KXV3B works great, especially on 6 meters and just in time for
this weekends contest.
Thanks again... 73
Emory WM3M
-----Original Message----- From: [email protected]
Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2015 7:23 PM
To: [email protected] ; [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 KXV3B install problems
Thanks to Jim and Drew for the help.
I talked to Elecraft support.
I tried bending the pins, loosening the side and back panels, pins were
just
too long. With the KXV3B lined up and in position, and with the pins
behind
the header, the pins touched the main board.
Support said it was ok to cut the pins so I cut tiny bits off till it would
go in the header.
If the back was off it would probably go in easily but just too many little
screws, nuts etc. to do that.
Also, I think it would help if there was an instruction sheet just for us
who upgrade from the KXV3A/KXV3.
Now to load the new firmware.. thanks and 73
Emory WM3M
-----Original Message----- From: Jim Brown
Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2015 4:12 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 KXV3B install problems
On Thu,6/11/2015 12:11 PM, [email protected] wrote:
Having problems with install of the KXV3B upgrading from a KXV3A.
The pins are two long on the KXV3B, with BNC connectors up as far as
they will go in the rear slot?
I tried putting the pins in tilting the board with the BNC connectors
not out of the slot, it was too much of an angle, they will not go in?
I guess I can cut the pins shorter on the KXV3B but wanted to check on
that first.
Any help would be appreciated.
I also had a very hard time with it, and ended up driving down to the
factory to let them do it. They let me watch the bench tech, who had it
installed in a few seconds.
I had to do my second K3, so I had him show me. There are three keys to
doing it, for me, at least.
1) in addition removing the top cover, also remove the side panel. It
makes it much easier to see when the pins are aligned with the socket,
and to get your fingers in there.
2) Begin by bending the pins slightly with a good pair of long
needle-nose pliers (toward the rear panel. It doesn't take much -- 10-15
degrees at most.
3) Now, insert the BNC connectors through the opening. If you've bent
the pins enough, they'll be close enough to the socket that you can push
them in to mate. If you haven't bent the pins, they will be on the front
side of the socket.
73, Jim K9YC
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