I run a Goot model 22C solder pot (small, about 1/2 lb capacity) - and
do not use fluxed solder at all! I use plain bar solder (available from
Mouser and others) cut up into pot-sized chunks, adding more when needed
(infrequently). I use a liquid or paste flux with the item to be
tinned. Such fluxes are similarly available fro Mouser and others. .
The liquid "paints" on with a little brush, the paste I just stick the
wire or terminal into, enough adheres to do the job.
I scrape the dross (oxidized solder and flux residue) from the surface
of the solder bath as needed. I manufactured the scrapers by cutting
strips of 0.010" stainless steel shim stock from a roll. Each scraper
is about 1/2" wide and 6" long. The length allows you to scrape the
dross before the heat transfers to your fingers. The solder won't stick
to the stainless, so just scrape the dross off the tool with your
fingernail or a utility knife when it has cooled.
I use the pot for tinning toroid leads, connector pins before
installing them, stripped coaxial cables before installing them into
connectors (mostly RG/8 into PL-259 fittings), large diameter wires
before attempting to join them to switches and terminals, and other
similar applications.
I keep the temperature set to about 800 degrees F, which seems to work
well. Don't leave small diameter wires in the solder too long, they
will literally dissolve into the molten solder. I second is about all
you need for bare wire, or if using heat-strippable insulation, I plunge
the wire in until the insulation disappears in a puff of smoke, and
remove the freshly tinned wire immediately thereafter. A little
practice is all it takes, and you will be pleased with the results.
Using the paste or liquid flux is essential for a quick and clean job.
Most freshly stripped wire will tin without flux, but not as quickly or
as well. Obviously, you won't need flux on heat-strippable insulated wire
Similar solder pots are often found on the Internet. Try a Google
search for "Solder Pot" and "GOOT" . I have seen them available on
discount for as little as $100.00. The price is high for one use, but
not bad at all if you use it for lots of jobs.
Good luck!
- Jim, KL7CC
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hello all, I have been building a K2 and now a KPA-100. I am using a solder
pot for tinning toroids and would like to know how often to replace the
solder in the pot. I have been skimming the top which removes flux and
debries. I used a 1/2lb off a flux core roll and found it contains too much
flux on the top, so I skim the top as it is heating to leave a thin layer on
the top. Should i be reintroducing more flux as I go, and should I be
removing the burn't enamel some other way? Also what temp works the best,
this thing smokes pretty good at 750*F and seems to burn the flux. Anything
much less and it won't tin properly.
Thanks -- Rick
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