Because there's a specific calibration process during build that's performed on the 10w system prior to installing the 100w amp.
With the 100w amp in place and the jumpers configured the data is speculative as to which circuits are in operation. The key to troubleshooting is to isolate. Don't assume data. Measure. You stated that your wattmeter is "known good", how/how recently did you get the calibration checked? Verify switch settings for the ranges? I usually trip on the simple things that, if known, would make me appear simple minded...but we won't discuss my past lumberings... :) Since the PA is trivial to remove is there any good reason to not do so? Logical assumptions based on the data so far: 1. The 100w amp is working by netting greater than 10w 2. We don't know the status of the 10w amp but since it drives the 100w amp we're getting something out of it. 3. We don't know how much power the 10w amp is outputting at full drive. 4. The rig was most likely OP assembled or an add on installed --- you may clarify the case here. 5. Wiring is suspect - Personally I had challenges here when installing the ATU and some other things. When an assembled system is new, always suspect connections/configuration. Jerry Moore CDXA, INDEXA, SKCC, Fists AE4PB, K3S - S.N. 010324 http://www.qrz.com/db/AE4PB An Amateur is - Considerate, Loyal, Progressive, Friendly, Balanced, and Patriotic. ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[email protected] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [email protected]
