LS,
Yes, the solder blob method works best with a wide tip on the iron to
hold a substantial blob of solder and a temperature of 800 degF.
I use my Hakko 808 for stripping leads, and it works wonderfully. The
only downside is that the enamel residue accumulates in the desoldering
tip and I have to clean it well after using it for stripping and
tinning. For those who have a desoldering iron similar to the Hakko
808, put the lead in the tip and add a bit of solder at the junction of
the tip and wire. When you see a puff of smoke come out, pull the
trigger and extract the lead. You should find a nicely stripped and
tinned lead.
Clean the desoldering iron afterwards.
I would discourage builders from using the "flick the BIC" stripping.
While it does vaporize the enamel, there is a residue left that often
resists proper tinning afterward. My repair activities have revealed
many PTTL (Poorly Tinned Toriod Leads) that have been stripped of enamel
using a flame. If you do use a flame to strip the toroid leads, clean
the residue from the leads with sandpaper and then tin.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 4/5/2016 8:51 PM, lstavenhagen wrote:
Glad I use the sandpaper method on my toroid leads lol. In fact, funny this
should come up, because I just started winding my new K2's toroids this
evening. But the solder blob method fails on this kit in exactly the same
way as it did on my first K2 some years ago. It's possible that the tip in
my iron is too cold (weller WTCPT with 700f tip), but I can hold it onto the
wire forever and it'll never bubble up and burn off. Go figure....
But as others have noted, it scrapes off pretty easily so I just use some
fine sandpaper and I can clean them almost all the way up to the hilt (the
toroid body). Works perfectly as long as I'm not too aggressive and remove
too much metal.
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