Good ideas Ron! I have never used a solder sucker before. How is one
used when a part is still on the board? And what is a good solder
sucker to buy?
Thanks for educating us poor mistake makers!
Keith Hamilton, W8GX
K2 #4692
Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
Trying to use a solder sucker on the same side of the board as the soldering
iron usually doesn't work for me either. Some builders trim a notch in the
side of their sucker nozzle to they can put the sucker over the soldering
iron tip.
I put the sucker on the opposite board from the iron and have excellent
results on the first try. I do it like this:
Carefully choose which side of the board to touch with the iron. Choose the
side with the fewest heat-sensitive parts like relays, trimmer caps and
pots, etc. Generally, that's the "bottom" of the KX1 PCB. So you position
the board in the vice so you have a clear view of the side you are going to
touch with the iron then, with your hand supported on a rest to hold it
steady, position the solder sucker on the opposite side over the hole with
your finger/thumb on the trigger. Now, while looking at the pad where you
are going to touch the iron, touch the iron carefully to the pad and, as
soon as the solder melts, squeeze the sucker trigger and WHACK! You have a
clean hole.
Don't admire the clean hole until you've carefully moved the soldering iron
back to its stand! A LOT of builders groan about having successfully cleared
a pad and then, while they're admiring the clean hole while holding the iron
in their hand accidentally touch a relay case or pot shaft and melt it!
Put the iron back in the stand before looking or doing anything else! Until
it's safely back in the stand, it's a "bomb" waiting to attack your rig!
Ron AC7AC
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