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Today's Topics:
1. R: K2 menu issue (IZ0DIO)
2. Re: R: K2 menu issue (Don Wilhelm)
3. R: R: K2 menu issue (IZ0DIO)
4. Re: R: R: K2 menu issue (Don Wilhelm)
5. R: R: R: K2 menu issue (IZ0DIO)
6. Re: 630 MHz transmit and receive using the K3s or modified K3
(Edward R Cole)
7. OT: Rohn 25G Tower on tilt base. (Terry Brown)
8. OT? K3s - WSJTX - MMTTY conundrum (Gary Smith)
9. Re: OT: Rohn 25G Tower on tilt base. (Jim Brown)
10. Re: P3: Vertical Lines for display question (Al Lorona)
11. Re: K2 KSB2 low output ([email protected])
12. Re: 630 MHz transmit and receive using the K3s or modified K3
(Wayne Burdick)
13. Re: OT? K3s - WSJTX - MMTTY conundrum (Don Wilhelm)
14. Re: OT? K3s - WSJTX - MMTTY conundrum (Don Wilhelm)
15. Re: OT? K3s - WSJTX - MMTTY conundrum (Wes Stewart)
16. Re: OT? K3s - WSJTX - MMTTY conundrum (Gary Smith)
17. OT: Street lights - for US hams only (Al Lorona)
18. K3 and KX3 on 630m/2200m (Roger Crofts)
19. Re: OT: Street lights - for US hams only (Matthew Cook)
20. Re: OT: Street lights - for US hams only (Jim Brown)
21. Re: OT? K3s - WSJTX - MMTTY conundrum (Joe DeVincentis)
22. KPA500, KAT500 for sale (John Perlick)
23. WTB Elecraft K3S (K3) ([email protected])
24. Question for Wayne about your OCF Dipole ([email protected])
25. Re: Question for Wayne about your OCF Dipole (Wayne Burdick)
26. Re: Question for Wayne about your OCF Dipole (Don Sanders)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 12:42:58 +0200
From: "IZ0DIO" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: [Elecraft] R: K2 menu issue
Message-ID: <[email protected]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Yes, Don. Consider also that this behavior is only for the ATU menu as all
the others menu setting are correctly stored.
Ciao
Giorgio
Da: IZ0DIO [mailto:[email protected]]
Inviato: domenica 17 settembre 2017 07:43
A: '[email protected]' <[email protected]>
Oggetto: K2 menu issue
I've a problem using my K2/100 with KAT100: every time I switch off K2 the
ATU menu selection is not stored and switching on again the ATU selection is
always on CAL, so I've to change it to AUTO in order to use KAT100.
This is a very annoying situation: any suggestion?
Thank you in advance
IZ0DIO - Giorgio
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 07:33:03 -0400
From: Don Wilhelm <[email protected]>
To: IZ0DIO <[email protected]>, [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] R: K2 menu issue
Message-ID: <[email protected]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
If you are exiting the menu correctly, then the problem is likely with a
memory location in the EEPROM IC U7 on the control board.
If you replace U7, you will have to do a Master Reset followed by CAL
PLL and CAL FIL as well as re-entering all the other menu items.
Download the K2 A to B instructions because that contains a chart to
guide you in recording the menu entries.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 9/17/2017 6:42 AM, IZ0DIO via Elecraft wrote:
Yes, Don. Consider also that this behavior is only for the ATU menu as all
the others menu setting are correctly stored.
Ciao
Giorgio
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 18:16:28 +0200
From: "IZ0DIO" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>, <[email protected]>
Subject: [Elecraft] R: R: K2 menu issue
Message-ID: <[email protected]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
Hello Don,
thank you for your suggestion, but before desoldering U7 (not easy) and
changing it I'd like to be sure that the problem is the EEPROM. It seem a
little odd to me that this problem come only with the ATU setting and it's not
so usual that a single EEPROM address is damaged. Another strange behavior is
that pressing MENU after switching on the radio I have on the display always
the first menu element (ST L) and not the last one I accessed before to switch
off the radio.
Thank you for your help.
Ciao
Giorgio - IZ0DIO (also KW4NE)
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[email protected]]
Inviato: domenica 17 settembre 2017 13:33
A: IZ0DIO <[email protected]>; [email protected]
Oggetto: Re: [Elecraft] R: K2 menu issue
If you are exiting the menu correctly, then the problem is likely with a memory
location in the EEPROM IC U7 on the control board.
If you replace U7, you will have to do a Master Reset followed by CAL PLL and
CAL FIL as well as re-entering all the other menu items.
Download the K2 A to B instructions because that contains a chart to guide you
in recording the menu entries.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 9/17/2017 6:42 AM, IZ0DIO via Elecraft wrote:
Yes, Don. Consider also that this behavior is only for the ATU menu as
all the others menu setting are correctly stored.
Ciao
Giorgio
.
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 12:36:28 -0400
From: Don Wilhelm <[email protected]>
To: IZ0DIO <[email protected]>, [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] R: R: K2 menu issue
Message-ID: <[email protected]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
Georgio,
The last menu selection does not survive a power cycle.? It is "sticky"
until power off/on.
ST L is the default selection upon initially entering the menu.
Yes, you might have a bad address in the EEPROM.? Since you have to copy
the menu settings anyway, try doing a Master Reset (hold the 3, 4, and 5
buttons while powering on.
If that does not fix it, replace CB U7.
Once you have a replacement IC, cut the leads close to the IC body and
remove the pins one at a time.
Clean up with solder wick and if solder remains in the holes, heat the
solder pad and push it out with a wooden toothpick or a stainless steel
needle.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 9/17/2017 12:16 PM, IZ0DIO wrote:
Hello Don,
thank you for your suggestion, but before desoldering U7 (not easy) and
changing it I'd like to be sure that the problem is the EEPROM. It seem a
little odd to me that this problem come only with the ATU setting and it's not
so usual that a single EEPROM address is damaged. Another strange behavior is
that pressing MENU after switching on the radio I have on the display always
the first menu element (ST L) and not the last one I accessed before to switch
off the radio.
Thank you for your help.
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 18:44:07 +0200
From: "IZ0DIO" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>, <[email protected]>
Subject: [Elecraft] R: R: R: K2 menu issue
Message-ID: <[email protected]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Don,
again thank you for your suggestions and information.
I'll look for a new EEPROM and then I'll follow your recommendations (I know
the procedure to unsolder an IC, but to be honest I'm not enthusiastic to use
it).
Ciao
Giorgio - IZ0DIO & KW4NE
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[email protected]]
Inviato: domenica 17 settembre 2017 18:36
A: IZ0DIO <[email protected]>; [email protected]
Oggetto: Re: R: [Elecraft] R: K2 menu issue
Georgio,
The last menu selection does not survive a power cycle. It is "sticky"
until power off/on.
ST L is the default selection upon initially entering the menu.
Yes, you might have a bad address in the EEPROM. Since you have to copy the
menu settings anyway, try doing a Master Reset (hold the 3, 4, and 5 buttons
while powering on.
If that does not fix it, replace CB U7.
Once you have a replacement IC, cut the leads close to the IC body and remove
the pins one at a time.
Clean up with solder wick and if solder remains in the holes, heat the solder
pad and push it out with a wooden toothpick or a stainless steel needle.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 9/17/2017 12:16 PM, IZ0DIO wrote:
Hello Don,
thank you for your suggestion, but before desoldering U7 (not easy) and
changing it I'd like to be sure that the problem is the EEPROM. It seem a
little odd to me that this problem come only with the ATU setting and it's not
so usual that a single EEPROM address is damaged. Another strange behavior is
that pressing MENU after switching on the radio I have on the display always
the first menu element (ST L) and not the last one I accessed before to switch
off the radio.
Thank you for your help.
.
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 11:01:05 -0800
From: Edward R Cole <[email protected]>
To: Elecraft Reflector <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 630 MHz transmit and receive using the K3s or
modified K3
Message-ID: <[email protected]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Thanks Wayne.
I have been using my K3 (SN 4043) purchased in 2010 on 495 to 502 KHz
from 2012 as part of the ARRL Experimental 500-KHz Group using
experimental license WD2XSH/45. Primarily using std CW or WSPR at
about 4w ERP. Our experimental license specified using power up to
20w ERP so one had to calculate from EIRP.
New ham regs now use EIRP which is typically shown if modeling an
antenna using EZNEC. I modeled my 43-foot high by 122-foot long
inverted-L which results in impedance at 503-KHz of Z = 0.83 -
j886.5. I measured the antenna using my modified MFJ-269B at 18 - j0
after adjusting the base loading coil for resonance.
Then get total radiated power from TPR = 0.83/18 * 100 = 4.6w (note
my amplifier is running 100w into 50-ohm load).
From EZNEC-5 antenna gain = 1.48 , EIRP = 4.6 * 1.48 = 6.8w
ERP = 6.8/1.64 = 4.15w. Thus my antenna efficiency is only 4%.
My unmodified K3 will only operate down to 490-KHz but I have the new
synth board and mod kit for the KBPF3 to install which will extend
operation to the new 630m band (472-479 KHz). I was able to get 1mw
output with my unmodified K3 in TEST which I drove a modified NDB
transmitter to 100w. The NDB is an aircraft CW beacon with dual xtal
LO separated by 400-Hz. By CW keying that shift it produced a mcw
signal. I removed he LO and simply capacitively couple about 0.1 mw
to fully drive the three stage amplifier. I was able to pick up the
NDB surplus for $40 which is self-contained with 55v PS. I expect
them to quickly be snatched up by 630 ops.
I home made a 10-inch by 11-inch base coil wound 1/4 inch spacing on
a plastic form to provide loading. I have two taps which are moved
between winter and summer soil conditions which shift the ground
resistance enough to shift resonant frequency. I got about 5-Hz SWR bandwidth.
Previous to the new mods, I ran a SDR-IQ receiver and only
transmitted with the K3. I have picked up the CW signal from an
Oregon station and my signal has been detected as far as Buffalo, NY.
AFAIK only two commercial radio will operate on our new ham
band: K3s (and mod K3) or theTS590. This opens a market for
entrepreneurs to provide preamps, amplifiers and transverters. Puts
Elecraft ahead of the "crowd", again!
NOTE: FCC requires pre-registering with UTC before operating on
630m. Its a 30-day process. I'm waiting for my approval.
73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
[email protected]
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 12:28:46 -0700
From: Terry Brown <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Rohn 25G Tower on tilt base.
Message-ID: <[email protected]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Hello All,
Please reply to me directly if you would please. We have far too many OT
threads that take on a life of their own.
I own a KX2, KX3, PX3, KXPA100, and K2. I love my Elecraft rigs. I have learned
much from this list so thought I would ask a question.
Background: I took down my 50 ft. Rohn 25G tower and Cushcraft ATB-34 beam
(old) when I sold my house. I am building a new home and I am considering two
setups for my tower. I don't want to climb a tower anymore and I am trying to
keep my XYL happy by not putting up so tall a tower. I know it won't perform as
well as before.
Four horizontal ft. of my roof will be 23 ft. above the ground. The peak to the
east is about 12 ft. from the tower. The rest of the roof is 20 ft. from the
ground. The yard slopes downward to the east. The house is high on a hill
looking east. To the west the ground is gently sloping up.
I know my proposed free height (8-11 ft.) above the roof isn't ideal. Since I
already have 5 sections of tower, I want to try to use them. Here are my two
ideas.
1. Putting up two 10 ft. sections and a top 9 ft. section of Rohn 25G. I will
mount a new Mosley TA 33-JR. on it with a mast putting the beam 2 ft. above the
top section. This would put the beam about 31 ft. above the ground. My
rotator is my reconditioned Alliance HD-73. I estimate the total weight of
tower and beam at just under 200 lbs.
I would like to put it on a tilt over base, either custom built or the Rohn if
it can take the load.
The tower would be attached to the house at the 13 ft. level, leaving 16 ft.
unguyed. I would have a pulley system at the 12 ft level of the house to lower
the tower.
Is this setup something that will work? I am concerned about the load on the
hinge on the base as the tower tilts over.
2. Put up one section of 10 ft. tower and a top section. Put an aluminum mast
in place that sticks up 12 ft. above the top section. Everything else is the
same. This reduces the weight a bit and has only 6 ft of unguyed tower. I
just don't know how well 12 ft of mast above the top section will work.
I would appreciate any advice anyone could give me.
Thanks!
Terry
N7TB
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 15:37:04 -0400
From: "Gary Smith" <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: [Elecraft] OT? K3s - WSJTX - MMTTY conundrum
Message-ID: <[email protected]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Hard to enter a short subject that is
complete...
Have a K3s using USB to the computer & the
internal card for digital modes.
I wanted to work a few Q's in the RTTY
contest and have been using WSJT-X for FT8
contacts.
In the K3s WSJTX requires Data A for FT8
and in MMTTY it requires AFSK A (45BPS is
normal).
I went to use MMTTY after using WSJTX and
with an excellent scope copy of the RTTY
signals, gibberish is on the screen. I
tried Reverse; REV in MMTTY and tried ALT
in the K3 and no benefit. I tried so many
things to decode in MMTTY but nothing
worked until some random change in a K3s
setting worked and then perfect copy as
usual.
I later clicked on WSJT to make a Q, the
radio complied and switched to the
settings for WSJT and when I went back to
MMTTY, the copy was again gibberish. I
don't recall what it was I did to set the
K3s back so MMTTY can decode RTTY I did
return it to AFSK A 45 but nothing
decodes.
It was a K3 setting that made the
difference but I have no idea what it was
I chanced on. anyone work out this issue
yet when switching from WSJTX to MMTTY &
the change in settings then required in
the K3s?
Thanks & 73,
Gary
KA1J
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 12:41:25 -0700
From: Jim Brown <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Rohn 25G Tower on tilt base.
Message-ID:
<[email protected]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
On 9/17/2017 12:28 PM, Terry Brown wrote:
Please reply to me directly if you would please. We have far too many OT
threads that take on a life of their own.
The Tower Talk reflector would be a great place to get this sort of advice.
TowerTalk mailing list
[email protected]
http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
73, Jim K9YC
------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 21:16:47 +0000 (UTC)
From: Al Lorona <[email protected]>
To: Dave Cole <[email protected]>, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3: Vertical Lines for display question
Message-ID: <[email protected]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
You guys may already know this, but there exists software that can read a graph and
generate data from it. For instance, it can turn a plot on a device's PDF datasheet into
real data. Just Google it. The one I've seen electronics people using is called
"engauge".
Al W6LX
------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 23:34:35 +0200
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 KSB2 low output
Message-ID: <[email protected]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
Solved: PIC16C72A was defective.
I had the chance to get a second K2 for reference testing. The KSB2 of
that K2 works perfectly in my K2, but not vice versa. The error is
isolated to my KSB2, but now I'd need to seek for the culprit.
I noticed a strange behavior at U1.16, which drives the DAC-Converter
for PWR-Level and ALC-THR. Yes, thats the PIC. I pulled out my old
PICStart programmer, cloned the PIC of the working K2 and programmed a
PIC16F876A which I had in the box. And here we go, full output power again!
73/72 Gernot DF5RF
Am 12.09.2017 um 22:59 schrieb [email protected]:
Hello again,
Thanks to Volker, DL4ZBG, he replied directly with the following link:
http://www.qrpproject.de/Media/pdf/ZusammenfassungMods.pdf
It is a nice description of many improvements that can be made for the
KSB2.
However, I believe that I do have a fault in the KSB2 (Rev. D) or K2,
since I know it behaved differently years ago. For example, the ALC
shows 7 steady bars, no matter what power level I set nor how much SSB
amplitude is produced. Regardless of the power level set, the RF
signal is never stronger than 1 bar.
I will try to experiment further, and I'm open to get any hints.
Thanks!
Gernot, DF5RF
Am 12.09.2017 um 01:53 schrieb [email protected]:
Hello list,
I recently tried to use my K2 on SSB. To my suprise, there was very
little output. Even with full power it only showed the first bar. I
did some SSB QSOs during the first years...
Digging deeper, I found the DSB signal showed a Vpp of ~1V, but after
the filter the SSB signal was only 20mV or so. Is this kind of loss
normal for a 7-pole filter? If not, any hints how to repair the filter?
tnx es 73
Gernot DF5RF
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______________________________________________________________
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Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[email protected]
This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to [email protected]
------------------------------
Message: 12
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 15:02:59 -0700
From: Wayne Burdick <[email protected]>
To: Edward R Cole <[email protected]>
Cc: Elecraft Reflector <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 630 MHz transmit and receive using the K3s or
modified K3
Message-ID: <[email protected]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Thanks for the info, Ed. I'm going to have to figure out my own antenna for
this band.
Wayne
N6KR
----
http://www.elecraft.com
On Sep 17, 2017, at 12:01 PM, Edward R Cole <[email protected]> wrote:
Thanks Wayne.
I have been using my K3 (SN 4043) purchased in 2010 on 495 to 502 KHz from 2012
as part of the ARRL Experimental 500-KHz Group using experimental license
WD2XSH/45. Primarily using std CW or WSPR at about 4w ERP. Our experimental
license specified using power up to 20w ERP so one had to calculate from EIRP.
New ham regs now use EIRP which is typically shown if modeling an antenna using
EZNEC. I modeled my 43-foot high by 122-foot long inverted-L which results in
impedance at 503-KHz of Z = 0.83 - j886.5. I measured the antenna using my
modified MFJ-269B at 18 - j0 after adjusting the base loading coil for
resonance.
Then get total radiated power from TPR = 0.83/18 * 100 = 4.6w (note my
amplifier is running 100w into 50-ohm load).
From EZNEC-5 antenna gain = 1.48 , EIRP = 4.6 * 1.48 = 6.8w
ERP = 6.8/1.64 = 4.15w. Thus my antenna efficiency is only 4%.
My unmodified K3 will only operate down to 490-KHz but I have the new synth
board and mod kit for the KBPF3 to install which will extend operation to the
new 630m band (472-479 KHz). I was able to get 1mw output with my unmodified
K3 in TEST which I drove a modified NDB transmitter to 100w. The NDB is an
aircraft CW beacon with dual xtal LO separated by 400-Hz. By CW keying that
shift it produced a mcw signal. I removed he LO and simply capacitively couple
about 0.1 mw to fully drive the three stage amplifier. I was able to pick up
the NDB surplus for $40 which is self-contained with 55v PS. I expect them to
quickly be snatched up by 630 ops.
I home made a 10-inch by 11-inch base coil wound 1/4 inch spacing on a plastic
form to provide loading. I have two taps which are moved between winter and
summer soil conditions which shift the ground resistance enough to shift
resonant frequency. I got about 5-Hz SWR bandwidth.
Previous to the new mods, I ran a SDR-IQ receiver and only transmitted with the
K3. I have picked up the CW signal from an Oregon station and my signal has
been detected as far as Buffalo, NY.
AFAIK only two commercial radio will operate on our new ham band: K3s (and mod K3) or
theTS590. This opens a market for entrepreneurs to provide preamps, amplifiers and
transverters. Puts Elecraft ahead of the "crowd", again!
NOTE: FCC requires pre-registering with UTC before operating on 630m. Its a
30-day process. I'm waiting for my approval.
73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
[email protected]
______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[email protected]
This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to [email protected]
------------------------------
Message: 13
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 18:13:03 -0400
From: Don Wilhelm <[email protected]>
To: [email protected], [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT? K3s - WSJTX - MMTTY conundrum
Message-ID: <[email protected]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
Gary,
What bandwidth are you using in AFSK A. Normally it defaults to 400 to
500 Hz, but your switch from DATA A to AFSK A may be confusing it.
I cannot speak to interaction between WSJTX and MMTTY, but you may find
something there in the switchover.
Normally in MMTTY, you tune to a specific signal where in WSJTX you are
setting to a wide bandwidth to view the waterfall of all signals in the
passband.
This is only a guess. Some control programs send commands to the K3 in
the wrong order - changing modes before making a band change is one
instance - that does not work with the K3/K3S.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 9/17/2017 3:37 PM, Gary Smith wrote:
Hard to enter a short subject that is
complete...
Have a K3s using USB to the computer & the
internal card for digital modes.
I wanted to work a few Q's in the RTTY
contest and have been using WSJT-X for FT8
contacts.
In the K3s WSJTX requires Data A for FT8
and in MMTTY it requires AFSK A (45BPS is
normal).
I went to use MMTTY after using WSJTX and
with an excellent scope copy of the RTTY
signals, gibberish is on the screen. I
tried Reverse; REV in MMTTY and tried ALT
in the K3 and no benefit. I tried so many
things to decode in MMTTY but nothing
worked until some random change in a K3s
setting worked and then perfect copy as
usual.
I later clicked on WSJT to make a Q, the
radio complied and switched to the
settings for WSJT and when I went back to
MMTTY, the copy was again gibberish. I
don't recall what it was I did to set the
K3s back so MMTTY can decode RTTY I did
return it to AFSK A 45 but nothing
decodes.
It was a K3 setting that made the
difference but I have no idea what it was
I chanced on. anyone work out this issue
yet when switching from WSJTX to MMTTY &
the change in settings then required in
the K3s?
------------------------------
Message: 14
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 19:28:50 -0400
From: Don Wilhelm <[email protected]>
To: [email protected], [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT? K3s - WSJTX - MMTTY conundrum
Message-ID: <[email protected]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
Gary,
One thing to check is when you change from WSJTX to MMTTY, does the K3
data mode change to AFSK A in LSB mode? If not, the software is to
blame. The sequence of commands (or lack of commands) sent to the K3
may be part of the problem.
You certainly can use DATA A for RTTY if you shift to the ALT sideband,
but the bandwidth will likely be set wide.
Where are you trying o decode? on the K3 or on MMTTY?
73,
Don W3FPR
On 9/17/2017 3:37 PM, Gary Smith wrote:
Hard to enter a short subject that is
complete...
Have a K3s using USB to the computer & the
internal card for digital modes.
I wanted to work a few Q's in the RTTY
contest and have been using WSJT-X for FT8
contacts.
In the K3s WSJTX requires Data A for FT8
and in MMTTY it requires AFSK A (45BPS is
normal).
I went to use MMTTY after using WSJTX and
with an excellent scope copy of the RTTY
signals, gibberish is on the screen. I
tried Reverse; REV in MMTTY and tried ALT
in the K3 and no benefit. I tried so many
things to decode in MMTTY but nothing
worked until some random change in a K3s
setting worked and then perfect copy as
usual.
I later clicked on WSJT to make a Q, the
radio complied and switched to the
settings for WSJT and when I went back to
MMTTY, the copy was again gibberish. I
don't recall what it was I did to set the
K3s back so MMTTY can decode RTTY I did
return it to AFSK A 45 but nothing
decodes.
It was a K3 setting that made the
difference but I have no idea what it was
I chanced on. anyone work out this issue
yet when switching from WSJTX to MMTTY &
the change in settings then required in
the K3s?
------------------------------
Message: 15
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 16:40:48 -0700
From: Wes Stewart <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT? K3s - WSJTX - MMTTY conundrum
Message-ID: <[email protected]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
Make sure the pitch in the K3 matches MMTTY.
On 9/17/2017 12:37 PM, Gary Smith wrote:
Hard to enter a short subject that is
complete...
------------------------------
Message: 16
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 21:14:55 -0400
From: "Gary Smith" <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT? K3s - WSJTX - MMTTY conundrum
Message-ID: <[email protected]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Don & Wes,
I'm stymied by what caused the problem.
Sometimes using N1MM with MMTTY there is a
bit of software change and PTT-KEY change
but never just running MMTTY alone with
the K3s. When I went to N1MM it was with
AFSK A and it was already in the data mode
as my last 20M Q was with WSJTX.
Everything seemed normal in every way
except garbage was what was being sent to
the screen.
Finally I tried to have the K3s decipher
by changing the DATA MD to FSK D. Now the
K3 was not deciphering either. Based on a
suggestion that mentioned on-off... I shut
down WSJT and MMTTY and retried and it
worked for decode on MMTTY. Why that would
have an effect on the K3s decoding I have
no idea.
I'll revisit the issue later this week,
there's a RTTY contest coming up but for
now while things are working, I'll enjoy
the air a bit & make a few more Qs. If I
find out anything helpful, I'll post that
here for anyone with the same issues,
later.
73 and thanks,
Gary
KA1J
------------------------------
Message: 17
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 05:16:13 +0000 (UTC)
From: Al Lorona <[email protected]>
To: Elecraft Reflector <[email protected]>
Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Street lights - for US hams only
Message-ID: <[email protected]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
Yellow sodium vapor street lights can be a significant source of nighttime RFI
on the lower bands. They are ignited at dusk by an RF arc that typically lasts
between 5 and 10 seconds, the lamp lights, and the arc is extinguished. This
arc noise sounds like a constant, dense static and is easily seen as a higher
noise floor of up to 10 dB on the screen of a P3 panadapter or equivalent,
depending on how far the street light is from your antenna.
The problem occurs when the lamp reaches end-of-life. After turning on for the
first time in the evening it will go off again after a period of seconds or
minutes and must be ignited again. Therefore, every so often the noise floor
suddenly rises, stays there for some time, and then returns to normal after the
lamp re-lights. This cycle can repeat several dozen or hundred times per
evening until it turns off for good at sunrise. 160, 80 and 60 meters are the
bands most affected by these lights.
I have been able to lower my ambient noise floor by several dB by going out on
'street light patrol' at night, armed with a flashlight, MP3 recorder and roll
of bright orange tape. I drive around out to about a mile from my house looking
for street lights that are cycling on and off. An efficient way to do this is
to look for street lights that are off and watch them for a few minutes to see
if they come on again, while listening on the car's AM radio for the
characteristic interference. When I find an offending light, I use the
flashlight and record the location, pole number, and any other important
information on the audio recorder. Then I mark the pole with the bright orange
marker tape and continue to search for other lights. On a good night, I can
find 5 or more lights within a radius that I know can cause RFI at home. I have
found that lights a half mile away will raise the noise floor only a couple of
dB, while those within a block or two can add 10 dB to the noise f
or.
My local electric utility has a web site to report street light outages. I
simply log in and transfer the information from the MP3 recordings to the form
on the web site and submit the report. I'm extremely fortunate that my utility,
Southern California Edison, faithfully replaces lamps within a business week of
my report. They like several reports at once which makes it worth their while
to spend a day replacing lights in one area, and they also appreciate the
orange markers which helps them sight the poles easily.
A few poles in my city are owned by the city, not the electric utility. In that
case, I have made friends with the city worker in charge of taking outage
reports and so I have someone to e-mail my reports to. Interestingly, the city
can take several weeks to replace a bad lamp. [Government always seems to be
less efficient than business.]
I encourage you to be vigilant for sodium vapor street lights that could be a
large source of HF nighttime interference for you.
Al W6LX
------------------------------
Message: 18
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 16:02:49 +1000
From: "Roger Crofts" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 and KX3 on 630m/2200m
Message-ID: <51C4EFBAD9374C38BC5B709F67A18F34@RogerOLD>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
I have been running both my K3 and KX3 on 630m and 2200m for the last 18 months
using commercially available Transverters. The transverters require 5 watts of
drive and it is easy to adjust to this output on both of the Elecraft rigs.
Just search for 630m band transverter, or 2200m band transverter. OK, I
confess, I own Monitor Sensors! 73 Roger, VK4YB.
------------------------------
Message: 19
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 15:57:42 +0930
From: Matthew Cook <[email protected]>
To: Al Lorona <[email protected]>
Cc: Elecraft Reflector <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Street lights - for US hams only
Message-ID:
<CAE+2d_3RJNV+M3QL14Ljx3f=9dmfcgx4k0eqawp_x1u_art...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
Be thankful that you're not seeing your sodium lamps replaced with LED
solutions, the number of streetlights in the average suburb are quite
simply staggering.
Don't think for a second that these LED lamps were designed for low noise
or that compliance with EMC standards will prevent unwanted interactions.
A single LED luminaire is permitted to conduct and or radiate RF across HF
up to and including 50dBuV, which equates to S9+15dB (S9 ~ 34dBuV into
50ohms).
I'm now resigned to moving my HF station out and into a remote location
that doesn't have these nasties with a bulls roar of my receiver..
Sad but true.
73
Matthew
VK5ZM
On 18 September 2017 at 14:46, Al Lorona <[email protected]> wrote:
Yellow sodium vapor street lights can be a significant source of nighttime
RFI on the lower bands. They are ignited at dusk by an RF arc that
typically lasts between 5 and 10 seconds, the lamp lights, and the arc is
extinguished. This arc noise sounds like a constant, dense static and is
easily seen as a higher noise floor of up to 10 dB on the screen of a P3
panadapter or equivalent, depending on how far the street light is from
your antenna.
The problem occurs when the lamp reaches end-of-life. After turning on for
the first time in the evening it will go off again after a period of
seconds or minutes and must be ignited again. Therefore, every so often
the noise floor suddenly rises, stays there for some time, and then returns
to normal after the lamp re-lights. This cycle can repeat several dozen or
hundred times per evening until it turns off for good at sunrise. 160, 80
and 60 meters are the bands most affected by these lights.
I have been able to lower my ambient noise floor by several dB by going
out on 'street light patrol' at night, armed with a flashlight, MP3
recorder and roll of bright orange tape. I drive around out to about a mile
from my house looking for street lights that are cycling on and off. An
efficient way to do this is to look for street lights that are off and
watch them for a few minutes to see if they come on again, while listening
on the car's AM radio for the characteristic interference. When I find an
offending light, I use the flashlight and record the location, pole number,
and any other important information on the audio recorder. Then I mark the
pole with the bright orange marker tape and continue to search for other
lights. On a good night, I can find 5 or more lights within a radius that I
know can cause RFI at home. I have found that lights a half mile away will
raise the noise floor only a couple of dB, while those within a block or
two can add 10 dB to the noise flo
or.
My local electric utility has a web site to report street light outages. I
simply log in and transfer the information from the MP3 recordings to the
form on the web site and submit the report. I'm extremely fortunate that my
utility, Southern California Edison, faithfully replaces lamps within a
business week of my report. They like several reports at once which makes
it worth their while to spend a day replacing lights in one area, and they
also appreciate the orange markers which helps them sight the poles easily.
A few poles in my city are owned by the city, not the electric utility. In
that case, I have made friends with the city worker in charge of taking
outage reports and so I have someone to e-mail my reports to.
Interestingly, the city can take several weeks to replace a bad lamp.
[Government always seems to be less efficient than business.]
I encourage you to be vigilant for sodium vapor street lights that could
be a large source of HF nighttime interference for you.
Al W6LX
______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
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Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[email protected]
This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
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Message delivered to [email protected]
------------------------------
Message: 20
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 00:25:49 -0700
From: Jim Brown <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Street lights - for US hams only
Message-ID:
<[email protected]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
On 9/17/2017 11:27 PM, Matthew Cook wrote:
A single LED luminaire is permitted to conduct and or radiate RF across HF
up to and including 50dBuV, which equates to S9+15dB (S9 ~ 34dBuV into
50ohms).
LEDs are low voltage devices, and the culprit is NOT the LEDs, but
rather the SMPS (switch-mode power supply) used to convert the AC line
voltage to the low DC voltage needed by the LEDs. OR, to be really
cheap, only a step-down transformer driving the LEDs with no rectifier
other than the LED itself.
BTW -- the ideal destination for posts like this and the one from W6LX
is to the RFI reflector.
[email protected]
http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/rfi
73, Jim K9YC
------------------------------
Message: 21
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 07:18:21 -0500
From: Joe DeVincentis <[email protected]>
To: Elecraft Mailing List <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT? K3s - WSJTX - MMTTY conundrum
Message-ID: <[email protected]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
I was doing the exact same thing. I was done with my FT8 and wanted to check
things out for this weekend?s contest. I could see lots of RTTY on the P3. So
I tuned some of the stations with MTTY and no decode. I did eventually find
one station that was decoding. It was a W7 station.
That meant something was working. Then, I changed baud rate - set it to 75 and
now I could decode most of the RTTY traffic I was seeing (some of the weak ones
or the 45 stations - not so much). The source of most of the RTTY I was seeing
at the time was the BARTG Sprint 75 contest.
Maybe you ran into the same issue.
73.
Joe, KO8V
On Sep 17, 2017, at 2:37 PM, Gary Smith <[email protected]> wrote:
Hard to enter a short subject that is
complete...
Have a K3s using USB to the computer & the
internal card for digital modes.
I wanted to work a few Q's in the RTTY
contest and have been using WSJT-X for FT8
contacts.
In the K3s WSJTX requires Data A for FT8
and in MMTTY it requires AFSK A (45BPS is
normal).
I went to use MMTTY after using WSJTX and
with an excellent scope copy of the RTTY
signals, gibberish is on the screen. I
tried Reverse; REV in MMTTY and tried ALT
in the K3 and no benefit. I tried so many
things to decode in MMTTY but nothing
worked until some random change in a K3s
setting worked and then perfect copy as
usual.
I later clicked on WSJT to make a Q, the
radio complied and switched to the
settings for WSJT and when I went back to
MMTTY, the copy was again gibberish. I
don't recall what it was I did to set the
K3s back so MMTTY can decode RTTY I did
return it to AFSK A 45 but nothing
decodes.
It was a K3 setting that made the
difference but I have no idea what it was
I chanced on. anyone work out this issue
yet when switching from WSJTX to MMTTY &
the change in settings then required in
the K3s?
Thanks & 73,
Gary
KA1J
------------------------------
Message: 22
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 14:05:10 +0000
From: John Perlick <[email protected]>
To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA500, KAT500 for sale
Message-ID:
<bl2pr17mb0770281781cb52c18e8164f5a0...@bl2pr17mb0770.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Price reduced to $2000 for super clean KPA500+KAT500, with interconnecting
cable. Contact me for pics. John K0UM [email protected]
------------------------------
Message: 23
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 18:12:08 +0200 (CEST)
From: <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: [Elecraft] WTB Elecraft K3S (K3)
Message-ID: <4G9.16Yri.1B3wSSN4EDw.1Pl}[email protected]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
I'm looking for loaded 100w Elecraft K3S with ATU and Sub RX with as many as
possible CW and SSB filters in both main and sub RX Consider equally options
loaded and already upgraded K3 with S/N 8801 or laterI accept radio from
smoker shack but must be clean and 100% electricallyShipping to EU or US
address, as you prefer
Payment thru PayPal or Bank transferContact me off-list with feature list
and asking price, please:
[email protected](mailto:[email protected])Thanks a lot
73?s
David
OK1RK
------------------------------
Message: 24
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 14:31:24 -0700
From: <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: [Elecraft] Question for Wayne about your OCF Dipole
Message-ID: <[email protected]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Wayne:
In a previous post you mentioned your 90 feet long OCF dipole. Would you
please elaborate on your antenna? Balun, leg lengths, how fed?
Thanks,
Marv
KG7V
------------------------------
Message: 25
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 15:02:28 -0700
From: Wayne Burdick <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Cc: Elecraft Reflector <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Question for Wayne about your OCF Dipole
Message-ID: <[email protected]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
Hi Marv,
I didn?t measure the legs. My best guess, standing here by the shack window
using an antique brass monocular, is 55? on one side, 35? on the other. This is
the most satisfying thing about off-center-fed dipoles: length generally isn?t
critical. Close your eyes and clip, knowing that, most likely, the ATU will do
the rest.
The installation was opportunistic, taking advantage of a back yard gazebo, a
Home Depot telescoping pool-cleaning pole, and a huge white oak. Height at each
end was determined by how high my son was able to climb without the neighbors
noticing.
The experimental feedline, running under the house for half its length, was
more deliberate if not justified in the literature. At first I was using 300
ohm mystery twin-lead scavenged from an installation of yore. But given all the
RFI sources I decided to try two lengths of LMR-400, taped together every few
feet, forming a sortof-balanced-shielded feed. Purists I consulted ahead of
time continue to be shocked at how well this works. At the mast, the grounds
are left unterminated. In the shack, the two center conductors go to an
Elecraft BL2 balun. The shields are soldered together and connected to the
BL2?s ground lug.
There you have it: Wide tuning range, low noise, low-loss, and theory-free. How
it works is left as an exercise for the reader.
Wayne
N6KR
On Sep 18, 2017, at 2:31 PM, <[email protected]> <[email protected]>
wrote:
Wayne:
In a previous post you mentioned your 90 feet long OCF dipole. Would you
please elaborate on your antenna? Balun, leg lengths, how fed?
Thanks,
Marv
KG7V
------------------------------
Message: 26
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 19:19:29 -0400
From: Don Sanders <[email protected]>
To: Wayne Burdick <[email protected]>, [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Question for Wayne about your OCF Dipole
Message-ID:
<cajcglv5oqmrlw9nuk6c2qm2k0+-dp_2k+vwdgqqula9070c...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
So not much different than the G5RV with parallel feed line all the way to
the tuner, no coax.
Just fed off center at the 39% or 61% point instead of center fed.
I wonder about losses in the tuner due to the imbalance but not having
tested it I hold any judgement.
Several articles in the literature of similar OCF antennas fed with
parallel line.
Basically all are non-resonant, so no worries about resonance on higher
bands as with OCF , balun,coax fed antennas.
I used a 88 foot center fed with 2 lengths of RG 6 coax similar to what you
are using.
>From Ecuador I worked the world with QRP 40 to 10 meters and with 50 to 100
watts on 80.
Yes, a good antenna. I center fed it due to worries about loss in baluns
with OCF antennas and the lack of commercial balanced line. Just a little
loss from the RG6.
Dr. Don W4BWS
?SKCC 81C
K2 SN 163?
On Mon, Sep 18, 2017 at 6:02 PM, Wayne Burdick <[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Marv,
I didn?t measure the legs. My best guess, standing here by the shack
window using an antique brass monocular, is 55? on one side, 35? on the
other. This is the most satisfying thing about off-center-fed dipoles:
length generally isn?t critical. Close your eyes and clip, knowing that,
most likely, the ATU will do the rest.
The installation was opportunistic, taking advantage of a back yard
gazebo, a Home Depot telescoping pool-cleaning pole, and a huge white oak.
Height at each end was determined by how high my son was able to climb
without the neighbors noticing.
The experimental feedline, running under the house for half its length,
was more deliberate if not justified in the literature. At first I was
using 300 ohm mystery twin-lead scavenged from an installation of yore. But
given all the RFI sources I decided to try two lengths of LMR-400, taped
together every few feet, forming a sortof-balanced-shielded feed. Purists I
consulted ahead of time continue to be shocked at how well this works. At
the mast, the grounds are left unterminated. In the shack, the two center
conductors go to an Elecraft BL2 balun. The shields are soldered together
and connected to the BL2?s ground lug.
There you have it: Wide tuning range, low noise, low-loss, and
theory-free. How it works is left as an exercise for the reader.
Wayne
N6KR
On Sep 18, 2017, at 2:31 PM, <[email protected]> <
[email protected]> wrote:
Wayne:
In a previous post you mentioned your 90 feet long OCF dipole. Would you
please elaborate on your antenna? Balun, leg lengths, how fed?
Thanks,
Marv
KG7V
______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
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Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[email protected]
This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to [email protected]
------------------------------
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End of Elecraft Digest, Vol 161, Issue 23
*****************************************
