I build and repair 1911 semi-auto pistols. All the internal parts are hand
polished and they are much harder than brass. You can do this while
watching TV if you want as it's rather mind numbing. Depending on the
surface roughness start with the 600 and progress up by 200 gr each sheet.
1000 should give you a pretty good surface finish. As Don says if you want
more shine go on up to 1600. I've even gone to 2000 but really didn't see
the benefit. A power sander will roll the edges plus can cause other
problems, really fast!
When I'm in the shop I use a marble tile to work on, 3/4" thick so it won't
move. In the house watching TV I use a board in my lap with a piece of
glass on it. Put the sand paper on the surface, wet it and go to polishing.
I prefer to use oil on metals, the puddle lasts longer. If you change your
oil in your car then you have what it takes. I've been using synthetic
motor oil for years so this is what I use for the polishing media as I
always have it on hand.
Pour a puddle of oil and go to it. With the 600 and 800 you are trying to
knock off the high points or rough cuts so polishing in a circle is ok. You
last few cuts of paper make sure you polish the long direction as it will
leave a grain direction in the final product. Taking out a swirl will drive
you crazy. This process will give you a bright as you want surface then
remember with brass you have to coat it or it will tarnish. A brass coat
works, I've used clear epoxy spray or even car wax works.
As you can see it's an easy job just takes time. Also using the oil I've
never had to tape or glue the sand paper down. Once it's wet on a flat
surface it doesn't move.
Paul K7PM
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