I replaced my encoders in 2014 and then last Saturday I replaced the
encoders in a friend's K3 SN 2707 I think.
In 2014 I used a solder sucker to desolder. I now have a Hakko FR-300
desoldering tool and used that last Saturday. The five small pins are
easy. It's the two large tabs that are a bit difficult. On the bottom
two encoders I snipped those tabs and then heated and pulled the cut off
piece. On the upper two encoders I desoldered the small pins and then
rocked the encoder back and forth alternating heating the tabs.
As far as spacing the encoders I 3D printed some 1.4 mm thick x 8 mm OD
spacers. That worked well. If I did it again I'd make the spacers 9 or
10 mm OD.
In a post in May to Elecraft K3 groups.io Keith, WE6R, Elecraft K3 Tech
posted "Our part # E640018, washer spacer E700187 or E700035 to space
them above the board evenly." I found a reference to E700035 in a
manual. It's a #4 x 3/8" nylon washer. I couldn't find any reference
to thickness of the washer.
73, Alan N5NA
On 2021-08-05 3:25 PM, [email protected] wrote:
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2021 11:59:03 -0500
From: Nick Kennedy<[email protected]>
To:[email protected]
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 small rotary encoder replacement
Message-ID:
<CALxojYL4YsD5ucKJ2=t3gpbyc-oes_64eq-wi0gxiudgeuz...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
I'm in the process of replacing the four encoders to the left of the main
VFO knob and wonder if anyone has any advice or pep talks to offer.
The encoders in my summer 2008 vintage K3 degraded to the point where they
often count backwards, making adjustment of CW speed or power out difficult.
I've purchased four replacements from Elecraft and have been working up my
courage and taking deep breaths. Getting to the board is a fairly
complicated first phase. I had an Elecraft document on installation of an
audio LPF on the DSP board and found it to be very useful in this process.
Of course the original assembly manual is also useful.
Now I've got the K3 apart to the point of allowing access. The upper two
encoders have terminals located beneath an LED mounting board and are
almost impossible to access from the top. I may stop after replacing the
lower two, assuming I'm successful with them.
My usual method involves solder wick plus flux. Sometimes I find ChipQuik
to be very helpful in allowing me to remove a part without getting rid of
all the solder. In this case though, using ChipQuik would require heating
seven joints simultaneously which I haven't been able to do.
There's also an issue with mounting the encoder at the correct height so
the shaft switch can be operated. So I'll try to match the height of the
new shaft end to that of the existing encoders.
I found one website which is somewhat helpful discussing this task:
https://www.n5na.net/s9y/index.php?/archives/26-Replacing-Elecraft-K3-Push-Button-Encoders.html
I'm keeping a lot of notes. Anyone planning to attempt this job is welcome
to them.
73
Nick, WA5BDU
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