Message 17 How much for the K3 package ….call me 760-318-0186 Peter VE7REZ
Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 24, 2021, at 3:04 PM, [email protected] wrote: > > Send Elecraft mailing list submissions to > [email protected] > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > [email protected] > > You can reach the person managing the list at > [email protected] > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Elecraft digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: K4 operating manual now available as both .pdf and .html > (David Gilbert) > 2. Re: KX2 temperature (Howard Hoyt) > 3. Re: Reversed K4 Rear Panel Drawing (Bill Steffey NY9H) > 4. Re: KX2 temperature (Gary Slagel) > 5. Re: K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED] (Michael Kholodov) > 6. Elecraft CW Net Report (kevin) > 7. Re: K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED] (jerry) > 8. Re: K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED] (Henk de Vries) > 9. Re: K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED] (Mike Kholodov) > 10. KIO2 and KUSB for K2? (Paul Huff) > 11. Re: KIO2 and KUSB for K2? (jerry) > 12. 40 METER NET / 80 METER NET 8-22-21 (Steve Hall) > 13. Re: KIO2 and KUSB for K2? (Don Wilhelm) > 14. Re: KIO2 and KUSB for K2? (Paul Huff) > 15. Any update on KIO3BUPKT_KIO3B Upgrade Kits for the K3 (Bill Wiehe) > 16. For Sale: KX3 + KXPA100 + PX3 + MH3 (VA7KL) > 17. For Sale: K3S + KPA500 + KAT500 + P3 + TXSensor + MH2 (VA7KL) > 18. Ground Wire & Coax (James Bennett) > 19. Re: Ground Wire & Coax (Phil Kane) > 20. Re: Ground Wire & Coax (Jim Brown) > 21. Re: For Sale: K3S + KPA500 + KAT500 + P3 + TXSensor + MH2 (Dave) > 22. Re: Ground Wire & Coax (James Bennett) > 23. Re: Ground Wire & Coax (Walter Underwood) > 24. Re: Ground Wire & Coax (Jim Brown) > 25. Re: Ground Wire & Coax (Phil Kane) > 26. KX3, PX3, KXPA00 for trade or sale. ([email protected]) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2021 20:35:28 -0700 > From: David Gilbert <[email protected]> > To: [email protected] > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K4 operating manual now available as both .pdf > and .html > Message-ID: <[email protected]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed > > > I never understood why Elecraft put out the PDF file as white text on a > black background in the first place.? It can't be printed, and if you > have to read it online the html version makes more sense.? It just seems > lazy to me for them not to have converted it on their end. > > Dave?? AB7E > > > > On 8/21/2021 7:29 PM, Alan Bloom wrote: >>> NOTE:? The operating manual has a black background >> >> I can make the manual (K4 Built-In Operating Manual, rev C9.pdf) look >> the way I want on the screen (black text on a white background with >> images rendered in correct colors) in Adobe Reader by selecting: >> >> Edit > Preferences > Accessibility >> >> and then: >> >> select "Replace Document Colors" >> select "Use High-contrast colors" >> unselect "Only change the color of black text or line art." >> unselect "Change the color of line art as well as text." >> select "High-contrast color combination:" = "Black text on white". >> >> However, although it looks correct on the screen, when I print it it >> still comes out with the black background. >> >> I'm just using the free version of Adobe Reader.? Perhaps someone with >> a paid-up version can get it to print correctly (print to a printer or >> print to another PDF file). >> >> Alan N1AL >> >> >> >> >> On 8/5/2021 4:08 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote: >>> Rev. C9 of the K4 operating manual can be found here: >>> >>> https://elecraft.com/pages/k4-high-performance-direct-sampling-sdr-manuals >>> >>> In addition to the .html version, we're now providing a .pdf, as >>> requested. >>> >>> NOTE:? The operating manual has a black background, consistent with >>> the color scheme used for all text boxes on the K4's LCD. Obviously, >>> printing a hard copy wouldn't be advised, as you would consume the >>> entire ink supply at your local Office Depot. It cannot be easily >>> converted to a white background given all of the text styles used, so >>> this isn't likely to happen in the short term. >>> >>> 73, >>> Wayne >>> N6KR > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2021 02:15:30 -0400 > From: Howard Hoyt <[email protected]> > To: [email protected] > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX2 temperature > Message-ID: <[email protected]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed > > Hi Gary, > > We have been manufacturing the Pro Audio Engineering Kx22 Heatsink kit > since 2016: > > https://proaudioeng.com/pae-kx22-heatsink-elecraft-kx2/ > <https://proaudioeng.com/pae-kx22-heatsink-elecraft-kx2/> > > The Kx22 provides 200% or more key-down time in transmit and there is > more data on the website.? The good news is the do not impact the size > of the rig at all.? By this I mean we engineered them to only have fins > which protrude only as far as the BNC connector on the right panel where > the PA FETs are attached.? Any case the KX2 fit in before it will still > fit once the Kx22 is attached. > > We have several distributors around the world which sell them including > GEMS in the USA, Lutz Electronics in Switzerland and others. > > Cheers & 73, > Howie / WA4PSC > proaudioeng.com > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2021 07:52:03 -0400 > From: Bill Steffey NY9H <[email protected]> > To: Wayne Burdick <[email protected]>, Elecraft Reflector > <[email protected]> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Reversed K4 Rear Panel Drawing > Message-ID: <[email protected]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed > > for my K3 I made a reverse upside down? copy from the manual, and placed > it on the top cover rear? ... > > it showed a top down drawing so I could reach back and all would be in > proper order top to bottom... > > yet to do for my k4,,, > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2021 12:45:32 +0000 (UTC) > From: Gary Slagel <[email protected]> > To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]>, Howard > Hoyt <[email protected]> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX2 temperature > Message-ID: <[email protected]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > I have trouble with the KX2 keyer malfunctioning when I'm operating with the > radio sitting outside in direct sunlight.? It happens after 20 or 30 minutes > of steady contest style QSO's on SOTA activations.? I haven't spent any time > troubleshooting other then trying to keep it shaded with whatever is handy to > droop over it.?? > I wonder if the?Pro Audio Engineering Kx22 Heatsink kit would help with that > issue? > Gary?KT0A > ? > > On Sunday, August 22, 2021, 12:18:20 AM MDT, Howard Hoyt > <[email protected]> wrote: > > Hi Gary, > > We have been manufacturing the Pro Audio Engineering Kx22 Heatsink kit > since 2016: > > https://proaudioeng.com/pae-kx22-heatsink-elecraft-kx2/ > <https://proaudioeng.com/pae-kx22-heatsink-elecraft-kx2/> > > The Kx22 provides 200% or more key-down time in transmit and there is > more data on the website.? The good news is the do not impact the size > of the rig at all.? By this I mean we engineered them to only have fins > which protrude only as far as the BNC connector on the right panel where > the PA FETs are attached.? Any case the KX2 fit in before it will still > fit once the Kx22 is attached. > > We have several distributors around the world which sell them including > GEMS in the USA, Lutz Electronics in Switzerland and others. > > Cheers & 73, > Howie / WA4PSC > proaudioeng.com > > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[email protected] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to [email protected] > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2021 22:45:16 -0400 > From: Michael Kholodov <[email protected]> > To: [email protected] > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED] > Message-ID: <[email protected]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > If you have the tuning step 10Hz, tune to, say, 7.200.56 and then switch to > coarse tuning, the display will show 7.200.5. But this 60Hz offset will still > be present. Then no matter how you tune at the coarse setting, you will > mistune. To fix that you should always reset the fine tuning offsets to zero > before switching to coarse. > It is apparently a bug in the software because the normal expectation would > be to reset all fine offsets to zero automatically after switching to coarse > tuning. > > Mike, AB3VN > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 6 > Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2021 20:23:51 -0700 > From: kevin <[email protected]> > To: [email protected] > Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report > Message-ID: <[email protected]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed > > Good Evening, > > ?? Cross-training is good.? I'm am learning to use a single lever > paddle.? However, when I make a mistake with it I get tense, which > causes more mistakes.? I tend to miss the dit side when my thumb > stiffens up.? Then I remembered my breathing exercises.? They calm me > down, take my mind off of the mechanics and back on what I am sending.? > Breathing correctly slows things down to establish a rhythm.? So hours > on the firing line, trying to hit the X at 600 yards helped me send > smoother CW. > > ? Conditions were better than I had expected.? They were close to what > Bill, AE6JV experienced last night.? Real world propagation reports beat > predictions.? Twenty meters was medium quiet with moderate to weak > signals.? Copy was OK because there was not much noise nor was there > much QSB.? Forty meters was not like that.? It had QSB and some summer > storms. > > ?? The crews fighting all the forest fires from British Columbia down > to California are being overworked.? California has the most, and the > largest fires.? I am very happy the winds are from offshore.? If they > were from any other direction it would be smokey up here.? It has been > very nice to breath fresh air this week.? Hopefully some of the rain I > am getting will travel East and South. > > > ? On 14050.5 kHz at 2200z: > > NO8V - John - MI > > W0CZ - Ken - ND > > K6XK - Roy - IA > > AB9V - Mike - IN > > K4JPN - Steve - GA > > > ? On 7047.5 kHz at 0000z: > > K0DTJ - Brian - CA > > K6PJV - Dale - CA > > > Until next week 73, > > ?? Kevin.? KD5ONS > > > - > > > > Chris Stevens:?? Today, a belated apology to the much maligned Chicken > Little. It turns out you were right - the sky is falling. The National > Space Administration informs us that Uncle Sam's Com-Sat 4 satellite is > in a rapidly decaying orbit. That's their way of saying a ton of angry > space trash is heading back home at fifteen thousand miles an hour. What > does that make me think of? Makes me think of a triceratops, innocently > munching a palm frond when out of the sky, whammo, a meteor sucker > punches old mother Earth. Next thing you know, that triceratops, along > with a hundred and seventy-five million years of dinosaur evolution, is > nothing but history. To that unsung triceratops and all its kin, here's > a song for you... > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 7 > Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 07:00:55 -0700 > From: jerry <[email protected]> > To: [email protected] > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED] > Message-ID: <[email protected]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed > > On 2021-08-22 19:45, Michael Kholodov via Elecraft wrote: >> If you have the tuning step 10Hz, tune to, say, 7.200.56 and then >> switch to coarse tuning, the display will show 7.200.5. But this 60Hz >> offset will still be present. Then no matter how you tune at the >> coarse setting, you will mistune. To fix that you should always reset >> the fine tuning offsets to zero before switching to coarse. >> It is apparently a bug in the software because the normal expectation > > OTOH, do you want the frequency to *change* when all you did was to hit > the "rate" button? The K2 behaves the same way. This is one of those UI > things where there really is no "right" answer. > > - Jerry KF6VB > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 8 > Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 16:13:31 +0200 > From: Henk de Vries <[email protected]> > To: jerry <[email protected]>, [email protected] > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED] > Message-ID: <[email protected]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 > > No, one would not expect a change when that button is pressed.However as soon > as the VFO is moved it would be logical that the frequency is in line with > the display.So the first "VFO move" should remove the offset.73 HenkPA0C > -------- Oorspronkelijk bericht --------Van: jerry <[email protected]> Datum: > 23-08-2021 16:01 (GMT+01:00) Aan: [email protected] Onderwerp: Re: > [Elecraft] K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED] On 2021-08-22 19:45, Michael > Kholodov via Elecraft wrote:> If you have the tuning step 10Hz, tune to, say, > 7.200.56 and then> switch to coarse tuning, the display will show 7.200.5. > But this 60Hz> offset will still be present. Then no matter how you tune at > the> coarse setting, you will mistune. To fix that you should always reset> > the fine tuning offsets to zero before switching to coarse.> It is apparently > a bug in the software because the normal expectationOTOH, do you want the > frequency to *change* when all you did was to hit the "rate" button? The K2 > behaves the same way.? This is one of those UI things where there really is > no "right" answer.??????????????????? - Jerry > KF6VB______________________________________________________________Elecraft > mailing listHome: http://mailman.qth > .net/mailman/listinfo/elecraftHelp: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htmPost: > mailto:[email protected] list hosted by: http://www.qsl.netPlease > help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.htmlMessage delivered > to [email protected] > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 9 > Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 16:07:51 +0000 (UTC) > From: Mike Kholodov <[email protected]> > To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED] > Message-ID: <[email protected]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > I second that. > > 73,? > Mike AB3VN > > On Monday, August 23, 2021, 10:14:29 AM EDT, Henk de Vries > <[email protected]> wrote: > > > No, one would not expect a change when that button is pressed.However as soon > as the VFO is moved it would be logical that the frequency is in line with > the display.So the first "VFO move" should remove the offset.73 HenkPA0C > > -------- Oorspronkelijk bericht --------Van: jerry <[email protected]> Datum: > 23-08-2021? 16:01? (GMT+01:00) Aan: [email protected] Onderwerp: Re: > [Elecraft] K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED] On 2021-08-22 19:45, Michael > Kholodov via Elecraft wrote:> If you have the tuning step 10Hz, tune to, say, > 7.200.56 and then> switch to coarse tuning, the display will show 7.200.5. > But this 60Hz> offset will still be present. Then no matter how you tune at > the> coarse setting, you will mistune. To fix that you should always reset> > the fine tuning offsets to zero before switching to coarse.> It is apparently > a bug in the software because the normal expectationOTOH, do you want the > frequency to *change* when all you did was to hit the "rate" button? The K2 > behaves the same way.? This is one of those UI things where there really is > no "right" answer.??????????????????? - Jerry > KF6VB______________________________________________________________Elecraft > mailing listHome: http://mailman.qth > .net/mailman/listinfo/elecraftHelp: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htmPost: > mailto:[email protected] list hosted by: http://www.qsl.netPlease > help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.htmlMessage delivered > to [email protected] > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[email protected] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to [email protected] > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 10 > Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 13:22:49 -0400 > From: Paul Huff <[email protected]> > To: Elecraft Email List <[email protected]> > Subject: [Elecraft] KIO2 and KUSB for K2? > Message-ID: <[email protected]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 > > I am thinking about adding the KIO2 RS-232 serial interface to my K2 but I > don?t know very much about computer hardware. Would the KUSB serial cable > that is also sold by Elecraft then be needed to connect the KIO2 to the USB > port on my Mac computer? Or is there something else that would be needed? > > Thanks and 73, > > Paul - N8XMS > 100% QRP CW > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 11 > Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 10:46:03 -0700 > From: jerry <[email protected]> > To: Paul Huff <[email protected]> > Cc: Elecraft Email List <[email protected]> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 and KUSB for K2? > Message-ID: <[email protected]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed > > On 2021-08-23 10:22, Paul Huff wrote: >> I am thinking about adding the KIO2 RS-232 serial interface to my K2 >> but I don?t know very much about computer hardware. Would the KUSB >> serial cable that is also sold by Elecraft then be needed to connect >> the KIO2 to the USB port on my Mac computer? Or is there something >> else that would be needed? > > *** Not sure about the KIO2, but I did peruse the data on the serial > port included on the KPA100, which is probably the same. In the case of > the KPA100, you MUST use a custom cable - either supplied by Elecraft, > or made up with their schematic. This is because Elecraft > used "spare" pins on the serial connector for things that have nothing > to do with serial communications. > > For serial comm, you connect ONLY pins 2,3 and 5 on the 9-pin serial > connector. pin 2 is TxD ( data from the K2 to the computer ), pin 3 is > RxD ( data from the computer to the K2 ), and pin 5 is the > common/ground. > > Again, this is specific to the KPA100; I don't know if it applies also > to the KIO2, but I suspect that it does. > > - Jerry KF6VB > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 12 > Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 15:00:35 -0400 > From: Steve Hall <[email protected]> > To: [email protected] > Subject: [Elecraft] 40 METER NET / 80 METER NET 8-22-21 > Message-ID: > <calduqnmbhmbh0o1vt6zddor47gfmyigad9zuye1yw8yttx9...@mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" > > Thanks to all that assisted with relays. > 40 METERS 7.280 1900Z > WM6P STEVE GA K3S NETCONTROL > W9EJB ED IN K3 > K9NU CARL OH FTDX101D > K5PD PETER TX K3 > W3SA JOHN NC TS890 > WY3T TIM FL K3S > W8UAN TIM MI TS-890 > NC0JW JIM CO KX3 > WN3T RICK VA IC7610 > K8IGU BRIAN OHIO TS2000 > KD9QDP RICK IL TS450 > N3RFO LES MD IC7300 > KC3HW JIM PA IC7300 > W2JHH JERRY GA IC7300 > N2TNQ LES NJ K3 > N2DTS BRETT NJ IC705 > > 80 METER NET 3.775 0100Z > WM6P STEVE GA K3S > K8NU CARL OH FTDX101D > WY3T TIM FL K3S > N8SBE DAVE MI K3S > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 13 > Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 15:25:22 -0400 > From: Don Wilhelm <[email protected]> > To: Paul Huff <[email protected]>, Elecraft Email List > <[email protected]> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 and KUSB for K2? > Message-ID: <[email protected]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed > > Paul, > > You must construct the special cable that is specified in the KIO2 > manual - you can make it a short one if you want. > That cable has a DE9 connector on the PC end which you can plug into a > serial port or into a USB to serial adapter - The KUSB sold by Elecraft > is a good choice -- if you choose another USB to serial adapter, make > certain it uses the FTDI chipset. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > On 8/23/2021 1:22 PM, Paul Huff wrote: >> I am thinking about adding the KIO2 RS-232 serial interface to my K2 but I >> don?t know very much about computer hardware. Would the KUSB serial cable >> that is also sold by Elecraft then be needed to connect the KIO2 to the USB >> port on my Mac computer? Or is there something else that would be needed? >> >> > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 14 > Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 15:36:38 -0400 > From: Paul Huff <[email protected]> > To: [email protected] > Cc: Elecraft Email List <[email protected]> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 and KUSB for K2? > Message-ID: <[email protected]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 > > Thanks to the several who replied, and especially to Don for the exact > information that I needed. > > 73, > > Paul - N8XMS > 100% QRP CW > > > >> On Aug 23, 2021, at 3:25 PM, Don Wilhelm <[email protected]> wrote: >> >> Paul, >> >> You must construct the special cable that is specified in the KIO2 manual - >> you can make it a short one if you want. >> That cable has a DE9 connector on the PC end which you can plug into a >> serial port or into a USB to serial adapter - The KUSB sold by Elecraft is a >> good choice -- if you choose another USB to serial adapter, make certain it >> uses the FTDI chipset. >> >> 73, >> Don W3FPR >> >> On 8/23/2021 1:22 PM, Paul Huff wrote: >>> I am thinking about adding the KIO2 RS-232 serial interface to my K2 but I >>> don?t know very much about computer hardware. Would the KUSB serial cable >>> that is also sold by Elecraft then be needed to connect the KIO2 to the USB >>> port on my Mac computer? Or is there something else that would be needed? >>> >>> >> > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 15 > Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 19:47:01 +0000 (UTC) > From: Bill Wiehe <[email protected]> > To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]> > Subject: [Elecraft] Any update on KIO3BUPKT_KIO3B Upgrade Kits for the > K3 > Message-ID: <[email protected]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > Just read July Newsletter and it is great to see that K4?s deliveries are > increasing. I was wondering if there is any update on when those of us who > place orders for items like the KIO3BUPKT_KIO3B Upgrade Kit for the K3, might > expect delivery. > Thanks, > Bill - W0BBI > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 16 > Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 17:26:32 -0700 > From: "VA7KL" <[email protected]> > To: <[email protected]> > Subject: [Elecraft] For Sale: KX3 + KXPA100 + PX3 + MH3 > Message-ID: <[email protected]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Fully operational. Located in Vancouver Canada. > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 17 > Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 17:37:55 -0700 > From: "VA7KL" <[email protected]> > To: <[email protected]> > Subject: [Elecraft] For Sale: K3S + KPA500 + KAT500 + P3 + TXSensor + > MH2 > Message-ID: <[email protected]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Fully operational. Located in Vancouver Canada. > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 18 > Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 19:42:27 -0600 > From: James Bennett <[email protected]> > To: Elecraft Reflector Reflector <[email protected]> > Subject: [Elecraft] Ground Wire & Coax > Message-ID: <[email protected]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 > > Got a question for those folks who are knowledgeable in grounding equipment. > > I?m installing a Zerofive flagpole antenna in my backyard. There will be > several 8? ground rods at the antenna site. On one side of the house is my > shack; on the other side is the home?s utility ground - a Ufer system. I?m > also installing a KF7P entrance panel on the exterior wall of the shack. > It?ll have several lightening arrestors and a very close-by 8? ground rod. > Per N.E.C. specs, I need to tie the ground system at the shack entrance to > the house utility ground - probably 150? or so from the coax entrance panel > to that Ufer spot. My electrician said that a #4 solid copper wire running > from the coax entrance panel to the Ufer point would suffice for keeping the > grounds together. Looking at the ARRL book on grounding and bonding, it > appears that what I?m going to do is to install a ?perimeter ground.? Not > cheap, but the right thing to do. > > Anyway, the path from that coax entrance panel to the antenna is about 100?. > The first 50? of it is the same path that the #4 copper wire would take. > Since the ground here in SW Idaho doesn?t freeze up, I?m looking at digging a > 4-6? deep trench for these wires. Is there any reason why I cannot place the > coax and the #4 copper wire in the same trench? Electrical reasons? RF > reasons? > > Jim / K7TXA > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 19 > Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 19:05:47 -0700 > From: Phil Kane <[email protected]> > To: [email protected] > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ground Wire & Coax > Message-ID: <[email protected]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed > > On 8/23/2021 6:42 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft wrote: > >> Anyway, the path from that coax entrance panel to the antenna is >> about 100?. The first 50? of it is the same path that the #4 copper >> wire would take. Since the ground here in SW Idaho doesn?t freeze up, >> I?m looking at digging a 4-6? deep trench for these wires. Is there >> any reason why I cannot place the coax and the #4 copper wire in the >> same trench? Electrical reasons? RF reasons? > > For safety reasons it is advisable to separate the perimeter ground wire > from any "utility" cables, including antenna cables. I would dig the > trench to 12" or more, bury the ground wire, fill the trench halfway, > bury the antenna cable, put a layer of some bright-colored heavy plastic > over the cable (to identify it if necessary to dig it up again) and fill > the rest of the trench. Put marker stakes around the perimeter. If you > don't want to dig it by hand, rent a Ditch Witch. Do not forget to call > Locating Services (8-1-1) to mark buried utility pipes and lines on your > property before you dig - they are funded by the utilities. > > Stuff I learned from my colleague Tom Croda (SK) who was the national > expert on communication site power and grounding. > 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane > Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402 > > From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest > Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 20 > Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 20:27:33 -0700 > From: Jim Brown <[email protected]> > To: [email protected] > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ground Wire & Coax > Message-ID: > <[email protected]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed > > On 8/23/2021 6:42 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft wrote: >> Per N.E.C. specs, I need to tie the ground system at the shack entrance to >> the house utility ground - probably 150? or so from the coax entrance panel >> to that Ufer spot. > > There's a bit more to it than that. In essence, more grounds are better > and you can have as many as you want, but they must ALL be bonded > together. That includes power, telco, CATV, shack, etc. > > My electrician said that a #4 solid copper wire running from the coax > entrance panel to the Ufer point would suffice for keeping the grounds > together. Looking at the ARRL book on grounding and bonding, it appears > that what I?m going to do is to install a ?perimeter ground.? > > Not quite -- it would be a perimeter ground if that #4 (yes, big enough) > were connecting driven rods spaced at least 1.5 - 2x their length around > the perimeter. > > Do you have the first or second edition of the book? Ward and I worked > through some of the issues involved with situations like yours for the > second edition. > > 73, Jim K9YC > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 21 > Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 20:28:01 -0700 > From: Dave <[email protected]> > To: [email protected] > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] For Sale: K3S + KPA500 + KAT500 + P3 + > TXSensor + MH2 > Message-ID: <[email protected]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed > > Price? > > 73, and thanks, > Dave (NK7Z) > https://www.nk7z.net > ARRL Volunteer Examiner > ARRL Technical Specialist, RFI > ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources > > On 8/23/21 5:37 PM, VA7KL wrote: >> Fully operational. Located in Vancouver Canada. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> ______________________________________________________________ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:[email protected] >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >> Message delivered to [email protected] >> > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 22 > Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 22:45:15 -0600 > From: James Bennett <[email protected]> > To: Elecraft Reflector Reflector <[email protected]> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ground Wire & Coax > Message-ID: <[email protected]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 > > Folks - thanks for the input! > > Jim - Not sure what version I?ve got - it doesn?t say, so perhaps it is first > edition of the book. However it does have a few paragraphs on perimeter > grounding, on pages 4.22 - 4.24. And yes, I had planned on a series of ground > rods driven in and connected to the #4 wire along its path to the Ufer > connection point. > > You mentioned ?at least 1.5 - 2x their length" of the ground rod spacing. > What would be the minimum spacing between rods? They are, after all, not the > easiest things to ?push? into the ground. > > Luckily we?ve got no Telco line coming into the house, nor CATV - it is all > fiber here. > > Jim / K7TXA > >> On Aug 23, 2021, at 9:27 PM, Jim Brown <[email protected]> wrote: >> >> On 8/23/2021 6:42 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft wrote: >>> Per N.E.C. specs, I need to tie the ground system at the shack entrance to >>> the house utility ground - probably 150? or so from the coax entrance panel >>> to that Ufer spot. >> >> There's a bit more to it than that. In essence, more grounds are better and >> you can have as many as you want, but they must ALL be bonded together. That >> includes power, telco, CATV, shack, etc. >> >> My electrician said that a #4 solid copper wire running from the coax >> entrance panel to the Ufer point would suffice for keeping the grounds >> together. Looking at the ARRL book on grounding and bonding, it appears that >> what I?m going to do is to install a ?perimeter ground.? >> >> Not quite -- it would be a perimeter ground if that #4 (yes, big enough) >> were connecting driven rods spaced at least 1.5 - 2x their length around the >> perimeter. >> >> Do you have the first or second edition of the book? Ward and I worked >> through some of the issues involved with situations like yours for the >> second edition. >> >> 73, Jim K9YC >> >> >> ______________________________________________________________ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:[email protected] >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >> Message delivered to [email protected] > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 23 > Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 21:52:28 -0700 > From: Walter Underwood <[email protected]> > To: Reflector Elecraft <[email protected]> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ground Wire & Coax > Message-ID: <[email protected]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 > > Is the second edition published yet? ARRL shows First Edition, Fourth > Printing. > > http://www.arrl.org/shop/Grounding-and-Bonding-for-the-Radio-Amateur/ > > wunder > K6WRU > Walter Underwood > CM87wj > http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog) > >> On Aug 23, 2021, at 8:27 PM, Jim Brown <[email protected]> wrote: >> >> On 8/23/2021 6:42 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft wrote: >>> Per N.E.C. specs, I need to tie the ground system at the shack entrance to >>> the house utility ground - probably 150? or so from the coax entrance panel >>> to that Ufer spot. >> >> There's a bit more to it than that. In essence, more grounds are better and >> you can have as many as you want, but they must ALL be bonded together. That >> includes power, telco, CATV, shack, etc. >> >> My electrician said that a #4 solid copper wire running from the coax >> entrance panel to the Ufer point would suffice for keeping the grounds >> together. Looking at the ARRL book on grounding and bonding, it appears that >> what I?m going to do is to install a ?perimeter ground.? >> >> Not quite -- it would be a perimeter ground if that #4 (yes, big enough) >> were connecting driven rods spaced at least 1.5 - 2x their length around the >> perimeter. >> >> Do you have the first or second edition of the book? Ward and I worked >> through some of the issues involved with situations like yours for the >> second edition. >> >> 73, Jim K9YC >> >> >> ______________________________________________________________ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:[email protected] >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >> Message delivered to [email protected] > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 24 > Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 22:35:15 -0700 > From: Jim Brown <[email protected]> > To: [email protected] > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ground Wire & Coax > Message-ID: > <[email protected]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed > > On 8/23/2021 9:45 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft wrote: >> Folks - thanks for the input! >> >> Jim - Not sure what version I?ve got - it doesn?t say, so perhaps it is >> first edition of the book. However it does have a few paragraphs on >> perimeter grounding, on pages 4.22 - 4.24. And yes, I had planned on a >> series of ground rods driven in and connected to the #4 wire along its path >> to the Ufer connection point. > > I don't know if the second edition is out -- we finished over the winter. >> >> You mentioned ?at least 1.5 - 2x their length" of the ground rod spacing. >> What would be the minimum spacing between rods? They are, after all, not the >> easiest things to ?push? into the ground. > > That IS the minimum spacing. Most rods sold are 8 ft or so, so I'd > choose 16 ft spacing. >> >> Luckily we?ve got no Telco line coming into the house, nor CATV - it is all >> fiber here. > > I would hate to lose POTS -- we often lose power for long periods, and > when that goes, so does Comcast. And we have NO cell coverage, thanks to > the "Tin Hat Brigade." I'm hoping I have enough of a view of the sky in > the clearing of our 200+ ft redwoods for StarLink to provide a viable > alternative. > > 73, Jim K9YC > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 25 > Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2021 12:16:39 -0700 > From: Phil Kane <[email protected]> > To: [email protected] > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ground Wire & Coax > Message-ID: <[email protected]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed > > On 8/23/2021 9:45 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft wrote: > >> Luckily we?ve got no Telco line coming into the house, nor CATV - it is all >> fiber here. > > Even more reason to have it Located.......ditto for your water, gas, and > electric services. > > 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane > Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402 > > From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest > Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 26 > Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2021 13:33:17 -0700 > From: <[email protected]> > To: <[email protected]> > Subject: [Elecraft] KX3, PX3, KXPA00 for trade or sale. > Message-ID: <[email protected]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > I have a complete KX3 station, as listed above, with side panels, covers, > cables and heat sink that is would like to trade or sale and end up with > another K3S, The station is in excellent cosmetic condition and works at it > should. Selling price for complete station $2650.00 including shipping to > your U.S. location. If you are interested in working out a trade contact me. > > > > Marv > > KG7V > > > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [email protected] > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > You must be a subscriber to post. > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > End of Elecraft Digest, Vol 208, Issue 13 > ***************************************** ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[email protected] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [email protected]
