Eric,

You will need a #1 Phillips screwdriver.
Remove the 2 black screws just to the rear of the front panel,
Then the 2 screws on the upper part of the rear panel.
There is one screw on each side panel near the top center.
Now you should be able to remove the KPA100 from the base K2. Place it "upside down" on a box or book(s) placed just to the right of the base4 K2 (it should be about 1/2 the height of the K2).
If you are careful, you can do it without removing the cables.

You will need to remove the screws holding the KPA100 shield. Slide the shield out from under the soldering lug located near the ANT jack.

There are 4 screws holding the PA transistors - you should be able to snug them down about 1/8 of a turn - do not "beef" them down, just make them snug.

Reinstall the shield, and put the KPA100 back on the K2 - Make sure all 3 of the cables are still seated properly.  Put the 6 black screws back in and you should be good to go.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/27/2022 7:14 AM, eric norris via Elecraft wrote:
Dear K2 Wizards:
I bought a K2 from a friend's (WA6OCP, SK) estate, and had a 100w lid built 
into it by Dave, W8FGU) who also gave it a full checkout and realignment.  I've 
now got well over 10 hours of TX time on it, and according to the manual the PA 
screws need to be tightened.
My problem is I can't tell from the manual  exactly which screws to remove so I can 
pry the heat sink up.  I've lost my fine motor control in my hands, so this is going 
to be a bit more of an adventure than it would've been 10 years ago.  I'd also 
appreciate advice on which tool I'll need to tighten away (1/4" nut driver?) 
and just how much to tighten.  I suspect it's the same snugness I used on my own 
K2/10 back when dirt was new?
With SKN coming up quickly, I'm hoping to put this K2, and the HW-16 given to 
me by my Elmer, W5NYT (SK) on the air as my tribute to them.
Thanks for any advice!



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