Good info Jerry...

The 'mil spec' technique I was taught to accomplish that manually was to place 
the part through the board and bend back whichever lead you are "not" about to 
solder.  This will hold the component in place.  Then nip the lead you are 
abount to solder so that it is flush with the board, leaving enough exposed to 
make a good connection with the pad.  The actual amount of solder you need to 
make the joint is next to nothing, and the component lead should not stick out 
at all above the pad.  Once that is done you can align and nip the other 
lead(s) and make a similar joint.  Of course it goes without saying that you 
must USE GOOD SOLDER and a GOOD IRON.

I saw that demonstrated by a guy who is certified to "solder in space".  He is 
the fastest solderer I've ever seen.  I have to wonder how many 'blobs' from 
cold solder joints are currently orbiting the earth....I know, it's classified.

That technique makes for a pretty circuit board, and guarantees there will be 
no shorted leads.  I thought I would share in case anyone wanted to try it.  Of 
course, everyone has there own way to solder - that's what makes this fun!  
Thanks,

Jim

--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

From: "Jeremiah McCarthy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: [Elecraft] soldering
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 10:52:45 -0500

Anything that is built for NASA and will fly will most likely have to be 
conformal coated...Leaving excess lead length might cause the ends to protrude 
out of the conformal coating, defeating the purpose of the coating...I was not 
aware of any min-max lead length protrusion in my dealings with NASA....We used 
minimum solder to save lift-off weight and we always trimmed flush...This does 
not mean that specs have not been updated since I left Grumman...

Jerry, wa2dkg

Certified NASA, Navy, and Airforce solderer...
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