Richard, The preamp does not have to exist for the display to indicate that it is ON. The microprocessor controls the display indication. You should be able to tap the PRE/ATT button and switch from the attenuator to the preamp to OFF for both.
Sounds like you solved your RF Probe problem just fine. Normally the shield would be connected to a piece of wire about 3 inches long - the coax center conductor solders to into the cup (dimple) of the red banana plug and the black banana plug is soldered to the wire connected to the coax braid. At least that is the way I do it. I also use a bit of heat shrink at the junction of the braid and the wire just to make things neat, but whichever way you get the connections made, it should work FB. 73, Don W3FPR > -----Original Message----- > > 1. I made the first power up and everything went just like the manual. > However, the preamp is marked on. The manual doesn't say which way it > should be and I thought I'd check before I got too much farther. > > On mine the preamp was always on even when it did not exist yet. > > 2. I'm confused about soldering the RF probe. I can't seem to find a good > way to position and solder the RG174 cable ends to the banana plugs. > There's just a slight dimple at the end of the plugs and I can't figure a > good mechanical way to connect them before soldering. > > I cheated here. I bought a crimp on BNC for RG/174 and terminated > the coax. > I already use a BNC to banana plug adaptor for my voltmeter for other > reasons. This just made the probe compatible with my system. However, this > does make for a solid connection. > > Richard Kent WD8AJG K2 5296 > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
