I have wound hundreds of toroids and have an "IMHO" to submit...The flame 
method is the poorest, most time wasting, most dangerous procedure...Since we 
need to strip the enamel up to as close to the core as possible, the flame will 
inevitably damage the first and last few turns by scorching both those turns 
and the core...The flame method requires 3 steps, (1) burn the enamel off, (2) 
clean up the scorched wire, (3) tin the wire...You will be lucky if you really 
can do so...

The "blob" method requires only one step and should be done with high heat...I 
used to use an old fashioned unregulated 40 watt iron for this...Today I use a 
Hakko 808...There is no need to first scrape the wire...The object is to burn 
the enamel off, and the heat of the iron and the solder alone will do that..If 
the enamel won't burn, the iron is simply not hot enough...Start as close to 
the core as possible...Put a blob of solder on the tip, immerse the wire in the 
blob, and slowly work out towards the tip of the wire, adding more solder as 
necessary...

Starting at the tip of the wire and working inwards towards the core has a 
tendency to push the wire inward, especially with the 28 gage wire used in the 
KSB2...This forms a loose turn inside the core, which, when pulled back out 
into place, will leave enamel on the wire close to the core, in the area where 
soldering onto the circuit board should occur...

After the toroid is wound, I pin it down flat on the bench with a weight, like 
a draftsman's paper weight, covering only half the toroid and leaving the wire 
leads sticking straight out...This leaves both hands free to manipulate the 
iron and the solder...Tin the top lead, then turn the toroid over and do the 
other lead...

Jerry, wa2dkg
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