How stable is the K3 power output? Is it like the K2 where power jumps
around, or does it stay at the power level you set? Is the K3 power knob
analog or digital? Does it have detents? I like to quickly switch
between 5W and 100W, so detents are nice.
I tried using my K2 to calibrate my LP-100s, but it was useless for my
needs. I am now using a TS-480S which is rock stable and repeatable at
all power levels for that task. 100W today is 100W tomorrow and next
week and next month, with almost no dither. The TS-480S is dedicated to
the calibration task right now, but a K3 as the main station rig would
give me a reliable (and user repairable) backup for *when* the little
TS-480S fails and has to be shipped off ;-)
73,
Larry N8LP
wayne burdick wrote:
No solder at all, Joe. And yes, we *are* breaking new ground -- at
least in the ham radio domain. One model we've had for the K3 kit is
the "no soldering", do-it-yourself PC. This has been around since at
least the 80's.
Builders will receive all of the modules (100% tested), a large bag of
hardware, sheet metal panels, bezels, knobs, feet, handle, labels,
crystal filters, etc. You'll then get to work through the assembly
while learning what each module contributes to the radio. By the time
you complete it, you'll know so much about the radio that you'll be
recommending new options :)
73,
Wayne
N6KR
On Apr 28, 2007, at 10:58 PM, Joseph Trombino Jr wrote:
Would like an explanation of how the K3 kit goes together since the
unit is modularized and no board-stuffing is required.
I wonder how much solder the builder will have to melt given the above.
Looks like we are breaking new ground here.
73, Joe W2KJ
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