Mike,
If you are certain you had the red toroid cores (not any blue ones) then
you have the older KPA100 T/R switch design - it must have been shipped
before mid-Nov 2006. You do not have to check C31 with the red toroid
KPA100.
Do check to see if the KPA100 is displaying low power - you can do that
check at low power by powering the base K2 and removing the power from
the KPA100. If the internal wattmeter is working, you will be able to
control power output and have a correct power reading if the wattmeter
is correctly calibrated. If you cannot control power output, then you
have something wrong with the wattmeter - T4 is the first suspect, check
the lead placement and check the lead tinning carefully. Be certain the
red wire goes through the toroid core center and that the bare wire you
soldered onto the SO239 jack is well soldered to the board at T4-6.
As for the 7:1 SWR you read on the Elecraft W1 - do investigate that,
and I strongly suggest that the cause can be found in either your dummy
load or in the connecting cables - use a very short coax connection to a
dummy load.
73,
Don W3FPR
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Don,
I am not at home right now to look at K2, but will try and answer your
questions to provide additional information.
I am not sure what the K2 was displaying in terms of watts out (I
think it was a low number), but I confirmed the output at 165w using
two external wattmeters (first the Elecraft W1, which I did not
totally believe because it was maxed out, then my Bird 43 with 1000w
slug). I was connected to a Bird 125w dummy load, confirmed 50 ohm.
The cable was probably not the best, it was a 20 ft run of RG-58 I
think.
My kit used the red toroids, and I assume at L15 and L16 but would
have to check when I can look at the kit (when I get home). Also will
have to check the value of C31.
Don't know if this will help you or not . . but this is what I can
provide for now. Will check the rest when I get home this evening.
Thanks,
Mike
N4JX
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