After using several other methods to attempt to install the bail, including a liberal emission of mighty oaths, I too used your method. My tool was made by a different manufacturer but it sounds very much like what you described. The only caveat I would offer to those who may be reading this and have yet to encounter the bail insertion challenge is to go easy on the pressure. It is very easy to over compress the bail with that tool which can exert a very considerable pressure. If that should happen, the bail will be overly loose and may not stand up and stay put when extended. If you think this is the voice of experience speaking, you are right. Fortunately, a bit of reverse bending restored sufficient width to the bail so that it fit properly between the rubber feet. In other words, I think that is a useful method but take it easy.
Bruce - W8FU -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 12:48 AM To: [email protected] Subject: [Elecraft] Simple assembly of K2 Tilt Bail I am in the process of assembling my K2 #6049, and as I came to the job of attaching the tilt bail to the bottom, I remembered the recent discussions here about the on-going problem this creates for many. I had seen the "loop wire around it and twist till it compresses both sides enough to insert the screws" along with the "use longer screws and then replace them one at a time".....and was dreading this portion of the project. However, as I assembled the tilt bail, the two nylon fasteners, the 4 bolts/lock washers/nuts, and the bottom panel...I noticed the Irwin brand bar-clamp I had at the side of the bench...and the proverbial light bulb lit up! The bar-clamp is one of those tools that make life much easier when you remember to use it..and that was the case tonight. The one I used only opens to about 8 inches...it's one of those with the pistol-grip type handles that creeps down the bar when you squeeze the handle until whatever your clamping is squeezed between the handle end and the fixed clamp face at the end of the bar. Mine was about 10 bucks at home-depot...and a quick Google search will show a multitude of makers of these, from Stanley to Craftsman. I simply put the bail between the two jaws...pumped the handle till it bowed enough to fit between the first nylon fastener which I had pre-attached to the board and the other fastener, which I dropped the first screw through the hole, dropped an extra nut on top of the recessed head as a spacer to keep the head pushed to the bottom of the hole so the threads pushed all the way through the bottom and protruded through the board...placed a finger on top of the extra nut to keep the threads protruding...turned things over, added the lock nut and finger-tightened the nut over the lock nut......then repeated the process on the second screw/locknut/nut with the clamp still holding compression so the tilt-bail fit between the two nylon blocks and didn't spring the block past the screw holes. Once things were finger-tight, I removed the clamp, got out the screw driver and tightened things up to final tightness. I was done with the whole process in less than 5 minutes. Hope this is of help to other builders. David King KE7EKA Gillette, Wyoming ---------------------------------------------------------------- This message was sent using IMP, the Internet Messaging Program. _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [email protected] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [email protected] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
