Chris
You would only need to re-calibrate the "VFO" if you swap a board which
has the same band as the other one, ie I have a 80/40 two band board for
Winter use and a 40/30/20/15 one for summer, I have to re-set the 40m
calibration when changing the boards as the two 40m band crystals differ
in frequency slightly. You do have to tell the K1 which bands are on the
board, but that is easy and can be done "in the field".
Have you picked up the old tip of threading a rubber band through the
spacers to make swapping boards less of a juggling act? The rubber band
holds the spacers on the long bolts and still allows you to tighten
everything up.
You can add capacitance to a KAT1 to improve the low frequency tuning
ability, I've done that with mine. See:
http://www.astromag.co.uk/k2/g4aon_kat1_mods.pdf for details of an easy
and reversible modification.
73 Dave, G4AON
K1 #1154, K2 #1892, K3/100 #80
-------------------------------------------
I recently purchased a K1 for use at our vacation QTH, and gave it
its first workout today during NAQP. It's not a contest rig,
but it did just fine :-)
I've got a couple of questions:
- I have two band modules: 40/30/20/15 and 80/17. Do I need to do
any recalibration when I swap? How involved is this?
- I have a KAT1, and it worked fine until I tried to use my W3EDP
on 40m. It's not really a W3EDP because I feed it remotely with
coax and a BL2 balun. I have the 'output' menu item set to 5W. If I
use the 4:1 setting on the BL2, the KAt1 would get down to about
1.7:1, but the max output was 3.8W (according to the display).
If I use the 1:1 setting, it would only get down to 3.6:1 or so,
but was happy to send 5W out. Huh?
73 de chris K6DBG
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