Hello,
I want to thank Matt, W6NLA, Robie - AJ4F and Mike AI4NS for their inputs.
They all three hit the nail on the head.
I was using an Astron linear 35 amp supply. I bought in recently on Ebay,
and assumed it worked, because it reads 13.8VDC with no load. I hooked up a
20 Amp Astron and it no longer trips. Guess I will be looking for a
schematic diagram for an Astron RS-35A Power supply. I also was feeding the
RS-35A through an MFJ 1118 outlet box. I might have to take a good look at
it too.
Now I have a different problem. It stays up and transmits, but only puts out
about 23 watts. The Power Supply is reading 13.6VDC at 23 watts, that is not
the problem. The LCD shows the correct power at 23 watts (even though the
power level pot is set for anywhere from 25 to 100 Watts) and a 1.0 to 1
SWR. I'm transmitting into an MFJ tuner in the dummy load switch position.
I think this might be something I did wrong with the set-up. I'm going to go
through the whole set up again step by step.
Thanks again to a fine group on this forum.
Best,
DW Holtman
WB7SSN
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Zilmer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "DW Holtman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "DW Holtman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <Elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2008 3:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 100 Watt Pa Problem
You might want to make sure your power supply isn't doing its foldback
or current limiting thing..... If it is, symptoms you've described
should repeat 100% of the time.
matt, W6NIA
k3 # 24
On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 14:19:11 -0600, you wrote:
Hello,
I just noticed something else on this problem. The whole radio resets, like
turning it off then on again. The word Elecraft pops up on the LCD and the
DSP red light blinks on, just like I turned it off then on again.
Any suggestions?
Best,
DW Holtman
WB7SSN
----- Original Message -----
From: "DW Holtman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <Elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2008 2:09 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 100 Watt Pa Problem
Hello,
I was wondering if anyone else has had a problem like ythis one?
I'm was in the process of finishing up my KPA 100. All of the power
supply, bias adjustments etc went as per the book. When I got to page 50
in the manual to test the transmitter at high power the problem shows up.
With the Power out turned to around 11 watts, the relay clicks and the
power out is taken over by the KPA 100. Every thing works great until I
get to right at 20 watts. Any power level 20 watts or over, when it is
keyed, a relay klicks, power out shuts off and nothing out. At 18 watts
the power out from the KPA 100 is fine. There are no error messages that
I
can find, even on the secondary message menus.
Any suggestions why the PA works up to 20 watts then shuts down with no
error message?
Best,
DW Holtman
WB7SSN
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'Nelson Wittstock'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>;
<Elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2008 2:00 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Soldering station
I just ordered the new KXV3 RXA board for my K3. The instructions state
requirements for the soldering station to be used in the installation of
the
new board. My workshop has never had need for "high tech" soldering and
consequently I do not own a soldering station. I have several assorted
soldering irons and guns that have served me well in the past but I guess
I
will have to join the modern world. Since I would like to keep updating
my
K3 it looks like I will need to buy a soldering station. In looking
through
Googled references I see many stations in the $100 and up range. Is it
absolutely necessary to spend that much to ensure the safety of my radio
or
are there some less expensive suitable alternatives?
Nelson - K8DJC
------------------------------------------
That mod is one of the easiest in terms of soldering. You are soldering
two
fine wires to closely-spaced connector terminals that, if overheated,
will
melt the connector header or lift traces. But it's not nearly as critical
as
many component installations in other locations. Two more leads are
connected to BNC connector terminals that require significant heat in any
case. The RXA board comes with the leads pre-attached, so there's no
soldering to do to the RXA board itself.
It's a judgment call. Elecraft wants you to be successful and your chance
of
having trouble is greatly reduced by using the right tools, and a good
soldering station is a tool you'll use again and again if you do any work
on
your rigs.
You can get away with less. I've repaired a lot of SMD circuit boards
sitting cross-legged on the deck in the navigating bridge of a ship using
a
portable butane-powered soldering iron while holding a flashlight in my
teeth.
I've also had lots and lots of practice over decades of soldering that
lets
me judge the temperature of the tip by the smell and, by being very, very
careful, I've yet to destroy a board or parts. I did have the advantage
of
"growing up" with the pc board industry, first working on boards back in
the
1960s that had large push-in pins to which leads were soldered, then
boards
with big thick, wide traces that have slowly evolved into the
tissue-thin,
tiny traces we find on many boards today.
Even so, whenever possible I'll use a temperature-controlled soldering
station in a comfortable, well-lit shop.
Over time, I've found that a good soldering station costs me pennies a
month
to own and use. I don't consider that too much to spend to protect
circuit
boards, almost any one of which is worth more than the iron.
I currently have a Hakko 936 that cost me less than $100 several years
ago
from www.tequipment.net.
Bottom line, it's a matter of how skilled you are at soldering and how
much
risk you are comfortable taking with the pc board and components.
Ron AC7AC
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