When I installed mine I just filled up the Via's a bit more and then was able to get it all easily with the solder sucker. Although I was using a sucker connected to house air and capable of RoHS temps (although I'm not sure if I stepped up into those ranges).
The board went in quite smoothly and I was very pleased with the sound enhancements. As far as installation I did a lil trick in that I put in the wires (all 6 of them) then cut each wire at a different height. That allows you to align each wire one at a time. Then I used the knurled nut from the headphones jack as a spacer off of the main DSP board before soldering. All in all I'm quite pleased with the sound difference. ~Brett On Fri, 2009-07-03 at 13:39 -0700, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: > I don't know who wrote the instructions you got. I've not worked on > installing that board. > > It sounds like it uses some open vias (the round 'grommets' that join traces > different opposite layers of the board together. > > I'd bet the person who created the document had a version with open vias. > However, I've noticed that some boards have the vias open and others have > them full of solder. > > Ron AC7AC > > -----Original Message----- > From: [email protected] > [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Mike Scott > Sent: Friday, July 03, 2009 1:05 PM > To: [email protected] > Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Audio Low Pass Filter > > I just completed an installation of the K3 audio low pass filter board, the > one Lyle put out to individuals who wanted to try it. I was busy until now > as the boards came out some time ago. > > It took a lot longer than expected because all the K3 DSP board holes were > full of solder. The instructions seemed to indicate that four of the holes > should have been clear, i.e., just stick the leads through. The instructions > seemed to be missing a section though as they never suggested soldering four > of the wires. I thought maybe a page was missing but the step numbers didn't > seem to indicate missing steps. Anyway, solder wick and solder suckers > didn't work. The holes are very small and it is tight quarters where a > miscue of the soldering iron could cause damage. I finally had to heat the > wire I wanted to put in the holes (resistor leads) and heat my way through > the soldered holes. > > For future reference, what would be the right way to do this? > > I would like to consider making more audio modifications, the one changing > headphone audio coupling capacitors to larger values for example. I looked > at those capacitors and I wondered how I was going to get them out. The > solder leads on one side seemed to be down at the bottom of a narrow canyon > caused by interfering components. > > Mike Scott - AE6WA > Tarzana, CA (DM04 / near LA) > NAQCC 3535 > K3-100 #508 / KX1 #1311 > > > > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[email protected] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[email protected] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[email protected] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
