On Monday 17 August 2015 07:21:33 andy pugh wrote: > On 16 August 2015 at 18:52, Gene Heskett <ghesk...@wdtv.com> wrote: > > But as I contemplate adding another section to the code by way of > > copy/paste, with an intervening paragraph of setting new values for > > the 2nd tool, it strike me that either this code should source a > > config file, or it could become a callable SUB for the configuration > > controlling file. > > > > So, one, is it possible, and two, whats the prefered order and > > syntax? > > I think that it is optionally possible to access _the_ INI file from > G-code, but not a generic file. > http://www.linuxcnc.org/docs/html/remap/structure.html#_optional_inter >preter_features_ini_file_configuration_a_id_sub_ini_features_a > > So, if your INI contains [RS274NGC]FEATURES = 4 then you can use (for > example) #1 = #<_ini[AXIS_0]PGAIN> in the G-code. > Which probably doesn't achieve what you want. Note that "4" is a > bit-field, You would typically use 12 to enable HAL-pin reading too. > > I suspect that what you really want to do is use a subroutine. In fact > I alterd my Lathe GUI to use subs and params rather than HAL-pin > access, partly because of queuing behaviour. > > example > > O<cut_joint> CALL [6.35] [13] > > ... > > O<cut_joint> SUB > (DEBUG, I will cut #2 fingers with a #1 diameter cutter) > O<cut_joint> ENDSUB
In my thoughts and since 90% of the variables are globally defined in the #<_name_of_var> style, subroutines have access to them once set without being passed. They'll survive, in my tests, everything but a powerdown reboot! What I have in mind is making one nominally 300 line subroutine out of what I have, and control it by a small header file that sets these variables for various jobs, and once its configured to do that job, call the main program as a subroutine to do that version of the job. This main subroutine also calls its own subroutines defined in this big file before use. The idea is to have a config file for carving the ends of an upper part of the box board that is the long side. And one to carve the mirror of that for the upper parts of the ends of the box that is the short side. One to carve the side/long boards of its base skirt One to carve the mirror in the end/short boards of the base skirt Thats 4. one, after a tool change, to do the 1/8" roundover of the top side of the long/side upper boards One, after a tool change, to do the roundover of end/short upper boards One, after the tool change, to do the roundover of the side/long base boards One, after the tool change, to do the inside, was bottom faces, again with 3 more variations. So 8 config files, all calling the same subroutine. Getting a precise cut with the bearingless point cutting roundover, on both faces will be a trick. It needs to cut a full 90 degree arc. 2 thou too deep in either x or z and it will be a lot of sandpaper to correct. 10 thou too shallow and the joints won't bottom well. Sequenced to do as much as can be done without removing the board from the jig, but it will have to be removed and turned over to do the roundovers on the back sides. This code should be able to do all that, simply by using the globally set vars in the calling file. And because the boards might vary in both thickness and width as they come S4S, but may have dried further before being shipped to me, I might have to do a different autozero than I am doing now by buying a reneshaw, and probing the top, and both sides (x direction) to ascertain the boards true width. The code, if that is adjusted, self expands or contracts in the x axis to maintain the pattern it carves to exactly fit the board. But because that would effect the joint fits when the mirrors mate, I an inclined not to do that, but cut as if the board was 20 thou narrower, oriented in the jig so the resultant short cut is on the same edge of the board on both ends, and jointer plane it off to get instantly identical width boards (until the humidity changes of course :). By then I hope to have them assembled, squared and glued up. There is also a separate operation, a thru hole for the assembly screw in the center of each finger, with a 5/16" deep circular counterbore for the screw head, and a 1/8" deep square pocket a few thou wider than the counterbore that a contoured top Ebony button will be glued into. Screws to be pilot drilled thru the predrilled holes and installed while the glue is still green if possible. At least thats the plan at this stage. I have one chest I built last winter on the small mill which needed a lot of manual help and used every last mm of its x axis, and 4 boys left, so 3 more to do yet. I won't have the roundover bits till the end of the week, so at some point, I am going to chisel off the left edge stopper of my jig as its too short, and glue on a much longer wheelbase strip of white ash and machine it square as I seem to be getting some rocking on the shorter version. How much longer depends on the max Y of the table, the ball screw conversion cost me some motion because the stem of the ball screws nut holder hits the end of the slot in the base coming forward, and the swarf shielding rubber gets in the way of full away from me movement. I have some bellows material that may make that less of a problem, but haven't investigated installing it instead of that huge and thick rubber sheet furnished that "tents up" leaving the Y screw somewhat exposed. Built by lowest bidder crap. :( The lid is 2 ea 2x12's edge glued, using biscuits as close together as practical, and to prevent warpage, will have "breadboard" ends made from (believe it or not) Gibson guitar mahogany neck blanks that weren't quite up to snuff due to the lay of the grain & thrown out by the shop that makes them for Gibson right here in these here hills of WV. I have a friend and ex employee who lives over in that neck of the woods who checks their burn pile and scarfs them up about weekly for his own projects. Same exact stuff Grizzly has in their catalog at $75-$175 a stick! I can usually make both breadboard ends from one neck blank. It seems almost criminal to burn it, but if we don't get it, that is exactly what that shop will do when the pile gets big enough. Bottom is mahogany faced plywood, with a 5/16" wide groove to hold the cedar planks for the lining, and the box edges capped with mahogany strips with a matching 5/16" groove for the tops of the cedar planks. Thanks Andy. I was pretty sure it could be done, but you've confirmed it. Cheers, Gene Heskett -- "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Emc-developers mailing list Emc-developers@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-developers
