> tool motion: 120 x 90 x 20 cm (X-Y-Z)
>   

Posibly a little small. Remember it doesn't cost much more to go bigger. 
It does depend raher on what you want to make.

> frame material: T-slotted aluminum
>   

Easy to work with though quite expensive if you can't get it second 
hand. Remember rigidity is the key so you want good cross bracing. A 
welded structure would be cheaper though it can be difficult to maintain 
accuracy when welding.

> motors: 3 stepper
> drivers: 3 geckorive (1 opt.)
>   

I personally dislike steppers. Have you considered servos? IMHO, much 
faster and easier to get a reliable setup. They are a little more 
expensive and a little more work in the beginning but I think the 
results are worth it.

> controller: Mesa 5120 (?)
>   
Probably a bit OTT for steppers. You can use the parallel port and a 
breakout board. Mind you it does allow for a lot of future expansion.

> power supply: linear 35-55V 600-800W (?)
>   

If using steppers I would go for around 65 - 75V. 500 - 800W sounds 
about right. Linear  power supplies have the advantage that they can 
take short heavy overloads, such as when accelerating hard.

> X-Y motion: moving arm (X-Y axis) (with ball bearings and steel rod)
>   

As long as the steel rod is supported over it's whole length this should 
work fine. I have seen too many machines using steel rod/pipe supported 
only at each end. They move in the breeze, let alone with cutting 
forces. If you are using ball bearings, fit wipers on the rail so the 
the beatings don't end up pounding dust into the rail.

> Z axis:
> optional: 4th axis for rotating parts
>   

Get the XYZ working first. 4th axis usually falls into the 'occasionally 
useful but spends most of the time gathering dust' category.

> What kind of a moving mechanism would be the most cost effective for 
> each axis? Lead screw, 

Trapezoidal screws don't have many advantages and have lots of 
disadvantages. Ball screws work very well  as long as you keep them 
clean. They are also quite expensive. Unless you use a very coarse screw 
(industrial routers often use 25mm/turn or more) you have to spin the 
screw very fast to get sensible feed rates.

> pinion gear and rack,

Very common on industrial routers. Tough and reliable. Fairly expensive. 
If you use a reasonably small pinion you can direct drive it straight 
off the motor.

>  belt

You can get special motion belting or you can use ordinary HTD or 
traditional timing belts. Best used as a sort of flexible rack. Fix a 
length of belting at each end and use two guide rollers to wrap it round 
the pulley. Obvuously the motor and pulley are mounted on the moving 
axis. Use reasonably wide belt, say 30mm or so. The main disadvantage is 
that the pulleys are quite big so you need quite a high reduction ratio.

> , or something else? I 
> haven't seen anybody using steel cable to move the arms around in CNC 
> machine for example.
>   

It has been suggested and tried before. I haven't heard of anyone 
actually getting it to work reliably. The biggest problem is that you 
need relatively large diameter cable so it doesn't stretch under cutting 
loads. It has to run on a drum with a spiral groove in it. This drum 
ends up very large, causing alignment problems as the cable moves along 
the drum. If you want to build an experimental machine, give it a go. If 
you want to build a machine to use, go for one of the more traditional 
methods.

> What comes to mind here is an old HP plotter model 7221 which uses a 
> rather complicated but efficient and precise mechanism with steel cable, 
>   

Plotters have much lower loads than routers so they can get away with 
relatively thin cable. The real problems appear when you step the loads 
and cable sizes up.

> I tried to find a source for plastic cable track to protect and guide 
> the cable but Google did not respond kindly. What kind of flexible 
> cables are used for connecting power/data to stepper motors and encoders?
>   

Look for energy chain. It sometimes turns up on places like eBay 
reasonably cheap. Other alternatives are:
Springy steel strip (think overgrown tape measure) with the wires 
clipped on. Shopbot uses this. You need a fair amount of room as the 
strip needs a very gentle arc.
Ordinary flexible conduit. It needs to be well supported sideways but it 
can work well, especially on shorter runs

Aim for a feed rate of around 2m/min at the very least and preferably 
around 4 - 6 m/min. Wood likes to be cut fast.  If you cut slowly you 
get burning, a poor finish and wear cutters out quickly.

Think about dist extraction. You will be producing a LOT of dust and it 
will go everywhere if you aren't careful. If you are using MDF you 
really don't want to be breathing it in. Dust extraction is hard to do 
right and you need to think about it while you are designing your Z axis.

Les

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