On Thursday, June 02, 2011 06:41:19 PM Ian W. Wright did opine:

> On 02/06/2011 22:10, gene heskett wrote:
> > As long as the work is held down so the blade cannot lift it, its much
> > safer to cut on the push.  I have even considered putting some toggle
> > type hold downs behind the fence to reach over and clamp the work. 
> > Sharp blades do not have a lot of lift though.
> 
> What you need is 'finger boards'. Get a piece of wood about
> 9in x 3in x 1/2 in and cut one end off at an angle of about
> 60 or 70 degrees. Now saw slots about 1/2 in apart from this
> end parallel to the long side and about 4 or 5 inches long
> right across the board ( fingers). Now put your work on the
> saw table and clamp this finger board to the guide fence so
> that the fingers just touch the top of the work and point in
> the direction of travel. Now the work can only move one way
> through the saw and can't kick back or lift.... Safe as
> houses. A second finger board clamped onto the table will
> keep the work held tight against the fence also.
 
Yup, I have them handy too.  But there is not anything to function as a 
clamping anchor on a BT-3000.  Its top is an ALU casting, so magnets are 
worthless too.  One could drill & tap I suppose, but the top of mine is 
Formica covered to keep the wood from being marked & dirtied by the alu.  
So I generally use one of 3 different push sticks, sometimes 2 for wide 
work.

Where the finger boards might come in handy would be mounted beside the 
blade of the radial arm saw, but that would need a quick release of some 
sort to retrieve the work.

> Ian
> ___________________
> Ian W. Wright
> Sheffield  UK
> 
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-- 
Cheers, Gene
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