Ok, thanks I'll keep the part level in mind when I mod my water table. 
I'm using a Hypertherm 1250 with a machine torch and I do know that if I 
keep the bottom of the part wet then I get a whole lot less smoke and 
dust. I have a small insert that I use for small parts that I can fill 
to the top.

John

On 2/13/2012 8:09 AM, Tom Easterday wrote:
> On Feb 13, 2012, at 8:05 AM, John Thornton wrote:
>> Tom,
>>
>> Wow! what a nice write up.
>>
>> I use a mix of sodium nitrite and physan 20 in my water. I noticed your
>> water is green, what are you using?
> Lube Corp., Green Cut (http://www.greencut.com/).  We used it because we had 
> it sitting around the shop.  Peter tried using it in his converted Fadal mill 
> but didn't like it for some reason I don't recall.  It seems to be fine in 
> the plasma table for the few weeks we've had it.
>
>> How does cutting submerged work?
>> I've been wanting to modify my water table to do this for some time...
> The torch we have is not designed to cut fully submerged (Hypertherm 
> Powermax54)  If the part is just under the water, say 0.25" or less, the air 
> blowing through the torch head will just move the water out of the way and it 
> is cutting just like it is above water (minus the top sparks of course).   If 
> you get the part any deeper though you get a lot of dross on the bottom, 
> normally an indication of cutting to fast.  It just can't cut it (pun 
> intended) if it is really submerged.  We try to keep the part just at the 
> surface.
>
> Supposedly there are torches designed to cut fully submerged, so I have read, 
> but I don't know anything about them...
> Tom
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