On 8/11/2012 9:57 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> You need to put it on at least 1/16" thick, according to Devitt, the US
> distributor.
> I recall it was about $100 for 50 g of the stuff, it comes in two
> bottles, and
> you are urged to not try to measure out A and B, but just mix the whole
> contents of each container.  But, there's all this OTHER stuff you need.
> There's degreaser, there's mold release compound.  You REALLY don't
> want the nut to seize on the screw, or you'd end up having to buy new
> leadscrews, too!
>
> Jon

I had some good luck with moglice on a Grizley mini mill several years 
ago. I got the moglice sales rep to give a talk at the New England Model 
Engineering Society. He told some amazing stories of huge machines being 
repaired. I dont recall any discussion of it being used on new machines, 
just as a repair product for worn ways.

There was a similar product offered by, I think, Philadelphia Resins.

I had good luck on a Sherline leadscrews using my own home brew. I use a 
lot of WEST brand boatbuilding epoxy. It is formulated to be thin, and 
the user mixes in various thickening agents, depending on use. One 
product they sell is powdered graphite. If you read the moglice specs it 
says its got graphite and molybdenum disulphide in epoxy. I think 
McMaster Carr has the moly powder. WEST products are sold at just about 
every boat supply store.

I just mixed a lot of graphite into the epoxy, all it could take and 
still be thin enough to run into the screw.

I didn't do any real scientific tests, but it has worked for several 
years with no signs of a problem. At the bottom of 
http://plsntcov.8m.com/sherline.htm there is a description of how I did 
the Sherline nuts.

ron ginger

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