On Thu, Nov 22, 2012 at 12:07 PM, Gene Heskett <ghesk...@wdtv.com> wrote:
> On Thursday 22 November 2012 11:50:45 Mark Wendt did opine:
>> I've got some laminating epoxy that requires well over 24 hours to
>> cure, and has a pot life of about three hours at room temp.  I suppose
>> I could thin the epoxy with a bit of either DNA or acetone to allow it
>> to wick further, but the that epoxy consistency is right about the
>> same as a good, thick cuppa hot chocolate, so it should be able to
>> penetrate fairly well.
>>
> That might work but I haven't seen anything like the epoxy I used on Bertha
> back in the 60's.  Sold as water ski finish, clear as water & left that
> laminated walnut looking like milk chocolate, good enough to eat.  18 coats
> of it at the time, took around 8 hours at 125F in an old fridge to cure
> each one, hit it with a piece of 0000 steel wool so the next coat would
> stick.  Repeat till tired of it, let cure another 72 hours to really harden
> up, then polish on the power buffer just like a piece of steel.  Other than
> aging yellow, its been a great finish & has ridden probably 250,000 miles
> standing floor plate down across the transmission hump, against the front
> of the bench seat in many a vehicle over the last 45 or so years.  More or
> less out of sight, handier than sliced bread.  Many a deer has stood there
> watching in curiosity for the 10 seconds or so it took me to stop, swing
> open the door and slide out, trailing it behind me using the scope for a
> handle, rack a shell in and draw a bead.  Dinner (yum) got a free ride
> home. ;-)

That sounds more like a finishing resin rather than a laminating
epoxy.  Finishing epoxies have little to no solids in them, since
they're designed for presentation and for making the surface pretty
much water proof.  The yellowing you see in most laminating resins is
due to the solids in solution to get the characteristics they're
looking for in a laminating epoxy,

Mark

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