On Sunday 03 November 2013 12:58:44 John Thornton did opine:
> You only peck tap when doing it by hand. When you machine tap you always
> go all the way in and back out. It is wise to use good quality taps and
> inspect the first few cutting edges with a strong glass before use to
> look for signs of wear like cupping.
>
> JT
I can appreciate that John, but my excuse is that I am at least 200 miles
from anyplace I can buy a 'quality' tap that I can eyeball for edge etc
before I drop the card for a 10 pack, one thats strong enough to do that.
So my local tap suppliers all stock the cheapest they can get, crap aimed
for the beginner hobby market. Today's Hansen is a piece of crap made from
cast iron, anything with a black nitride coating will be both the wrong
size and not sharp enough to seriously damage a stick of margarine. So I
use what I can get that looks sharp, which is usually the nitrided Mibro.
But while they seem to be hard enough, and sharp enough, and are generally
the right size, the chip gulleys are too shallow and it will be chip bound
in 2 turns. So I am forced to peck regardless of how its being driven,
blowing it clean on the backout & if theres enough pause, a drop of cutting
oil.
Now if someone knows where I can buy an 8-32 tap that can tap an 8-32 blind
hole pre-drilled .250" deeper than the needed threads, tapped as deep as
the tap is long and do it repeatedly for a dozen holes before I am rigging
to EDM its broken pieces out of the hole, I am all ears. And it may have
to do it in a piece of tool steel right out of the paper sleeve.
> On 11/2/2013 3:50 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > However, this doesn't answer the question about anyone else having
> > written a "peck cycle" using the G33.1 routine and had it work
> > perfectly, or if they too had encountered a duck that walks & quacks
> > like this one. Thanks Gregg. Cheers, Gene
Thanks John.
Cheers, Gene
--
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dangerous than 200 million guns in the hands of
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