On Monday 04 November 2013 09:43:24 John Thornton did opine:

> I use OSG taps coated with electraLUBE. What I meant by looking at the
> tap was after you use it and before you use it again. For a blind hole
> you want a spiral flute bottoming tap. Are you reaming the hole to final
> size before tapping?

Not generally, tending to search my drills with a mic in hand, looking for 
something that will give me the book to maybe 2 or 3% more thread than the 
book says.  Hard on taps if I miss a couple thou small because that drill 
is sharpened dead center & doesn't drill 3 or 4 thou oversize.  Then the 
pecking gets real...  Toss in that the drill doctor isn't that accurate 
below 1/4" drills and it can get interesting, or expensive.  Hell, I'd pay 
another $200 for a Drill Doctor that could do a 1/16" bit RIGHT.  But that 
beast isn't made, the drill bits, sloppy as they are, are too cheap to be a 
target for the DD.  Dammit.
 
> I get my taps from MSC.
> 
> http://www.mscdirect.com/browse/?navid=4294951007+12106033+4288244499+42
> 88247981+4288247983&searchterm=OSG
> 
> I do buy a lot from McMaster Carr... but not taps.
> 
Under a $20 bill for that isn't that bad.  Thanks John.

> JT
> 
> On 11/3/2013 12:27 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > On Sunday 03 November 2013 12:58:44 John Thornton did opine:
> >> You only peck tap when doing it by hand. When you machine tap you
> >> always go all the way in and back out. It is wise to use good
> >> quality taps and inspect the first few cutting edges with a strong
> >> glass before use to look for signs of wear like cupping.
> >> 
> >> JT
> > 
> > I can appreciate that John, but my excuse is that I am at least 200
> > miles from anyplace I can buy a 'quality' tap that I can eyeball for
> > edge etc before I drop the card for a 10 pack, one thats strong
> > enough to do that.
> > 
> > So my local tap suppliers all stock the cheapest they can get, crap
> > aimed for the beginner hobby market.  Today's Hansen is a piece of
> > crap made from cast iron, anything with a black nitride coating will
> > be both the wrong size and not sharp enough to seriously damage a
> > stick of margarine.  So I use what I can get that looks sharp, which
> > is usually the nitrided Mibro. But while they seem to be hard enough,
> > and sharp enough, and are generally the right size, the chip gulleys
> > are too shallow and it will be chip bound in 2 turns.  So I am forced
> > to peck regardless of how its being driven, blowing it clean on the
> > backout & if theres enough pause, a drop of cutting oil.
> > 
> > Now if someone knows where I can buy an 8-32 tap that can tap an 8-32
> > blind hole pre-drilled .250" deeper than the needed threads, tapped
> > as deep as the tap is long and do it repeatedly for a dozen holes
> > before I am rigging to EDM its broken pieces out of the hole, I am
> > all ears.  And it may have to do it in a piece of tool steel right
> > out of the paper sleeve.
> > 
> >> On 11/2/2013 3:50 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> >>> However, this doesn't answer the question about anyone else having
> >>> written a "peck cycle" using the G33.1 routine and had it work
> >>> perfectly, or if they too had encountered a duck that walks & quacks
> >>> like this one. Thanks Gregg. Cheers, Gene
> > 
> > Thanks John.
> > 
> > Cheers, Gene
> 
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Cheers, Gene
-- 
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         law-abiding citizens.

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