Hi Gene,

The chemical is Galden 230, an inset liquid with a precise boiling temperature 
with a very dense energy mist. It costs about $1000 per litre. That's why you 
don't want the vapour to escape. :)

There is the Galden HT 230 version of the liquid that it 1/2 the price. It's 
boiling temp has a 5deg variance whereas the Galden 230 has a 1C variance.

All you need is some very cheap equipment. An induction heater plus a tall pot 
such as an asparagus cooker.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Norpro-Asparagus-Stainless-Steel-Cooker-Steamer-/131463399197
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5-Star-Chef-Electric-Induction-Cooktop-Portable-Digital-Cooker-Single-Hot-Plate-/390928252222

If you search for DIY vapour phase you will find a lot of information.

Have a look at this.

http://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/vapour-phase-soldering/msg657767/#msg657767

Cheers,

Peter


On 11/05/2015 6:35 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
>
>
> On Sunday 10 May 2015 22:40:58 Peter wrote:
>> Surface mount is predominately done in relow ovens. There are not a
>> lot of throgh hole components that are designed for the reflow
>> process. Also appling the solder pate is problematic. There are
>> through hole connectors that are designed for reflow ovens. The paste
>> stencils have larger opening for the through hole parts so that enough
>> paste is applied. Also the hole size for the through hole parts
>> becomes more critical. I have done it on one of my boards where I was
>> using a DIP8 through hole socket. Works OK.
>>
>> The KISS machines are designed for through hole parts only.
>>
>> I had a chance to purchase a benchtop vapour phase solding machine but
>> wasn't quick enough. It's a very simple process. The machines use a
>> liquid (expensive) that boils at 235C. The process is to heat the
>> liquid to the boiling temp is a container until the vapour fills the
>> container. There is a cooling coil at the top of the container that
>> condenses the vapour if it rises too high as you don't want it to
>> escape.
>
> Might that be Safflower oil? It has a quite high flash point, and I have
> used it in a misting system while carving alu. It does extend tool life
> considerably by blocking the alu's acess to oxygen in the air, slowing
> the alox formation that eats even carbide tooling.  Disadvantage of that
> was that I had no vapor removal system, and the 2 oz of oil used filled
> the building with such a fog that it took considerable cleaning to
> remove from my glasses.  And I didn't want to think about what it might
> be doing to the efficiency of my lungs!
>
> Doing a board by lowering it into the hot vapor would rapidly bring the
> board to the vapor temp by the vapor condensing on the board, and would
> be pretty uniform.  But I'd not hazard a guess as to the effects of the
> oil on the solder pastes predeposited.  In blocking oxygen access as it
> condensed on the boards components it would enhance the activity of the
> rosins in the paste, potentially makeing a very good "gas tight" joint.
> But would the hot oil also degrade the resins in the solder paste.  IDK.
>
>> The PCB is then lowered into the vapour. The PCB is then heated to the
>> vapour temperature. The advantage of this system is that unlike
>> infared reflow, larger components don't end up as a heat sink causing
>> uneaven temperatures across boards components.
>>
>> I know guys who have made vapour reflow maching with a 5 gallon drum,
>> PID heater along with a cooling coil wrapped around the top of the
>> drum. I've never tried it though.
>
> The amount of energy needed to achieve that vapor would indicate a need
> for some decent insulation around the bucket, but if the cooling coil
> did its job, and running water from the cold water faucet would do for
> that I'd think, you wouldn't need that much oil, half a cm in the
> bottom, so heating time to operating temps could be fairly short. Maybe
> a minute a board, you could have 100 boards ready to go and do them in
> under 2 hours one at a time.  Several in a wire basket a bit smaller
> than the bucket would speed that up.  8 up maybe for a small board?
>
> Washing the oil back off the board would take some aromatics, alcohol for
> instance.  That would also remove the rosins from the paste, leaving it
> very clean indeed.  Food for an experiment?
>
>> Cheers,
>> Peter
>> Peter Homann
>> http://www.homanndesigns.com/store
>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett
>

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