Good day Gene,
Loctite is the answer but there are many grades of loctite make sure you use
the right type for the job,
You will need to know the size of the bolt/nut this governs the type of Loctite
to use, also do you wish to
remove the bolt,
I used bearing mount Loctite, when fitting steel bearings to aluminium
housings that allowed a slide fit,
but the key to success is that it you always use a Loctite primer and don't
waste to much time fitting the
parts together.
Regards john
> From: ghesk...@wdtv.com
> To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2015 20:49:09 -0400
> Subject: [Emc-users] Lathe conversion to all metal gearing and sprockets
>
> I guess the fedex guy didn't have anything better to do, so the motor I
> ordered a couple days back walked up and splatted itself into a deck
> chair beside the front door about 10:30 ish this morning.
>
> That meant I had just about everything on hand to convert the spindle
> drive to all metal gears, and all metal sprockets.
>
> But it wasn't all that easy, Murphy is alive and well.
>
> While the mounting bracket for a swing mount looked the same, it was
> welded to the field sleeve of the motor about 10mm farther from the
> flywheel. So I had to stack up washers on the swingbolts to space it to
> align the 6 groove j pulley with its load pulley, a 3 incher.
>
> The crescent slotted bracket to adjust belt tension, once sawed off to
> match the old one, misses backing out to align with the lock bolt by
> about 10mm, so it appears the pivot bolt holes must be 3 or 4mm farther
> from the motor body. Its difficult to make a meaningfull measurement of
> that. So a 170mm j6 belt got ordered to replace the 160mm j6. I hope
> that won't lay the motor too low.
>
> I took 3.5mm off the top of the jackshaft frame so it can lift a bit
> higher in the old motor pocket under the bed, and a quick test fit seems
> to indicate that is enough rise to compensate for swapping a 10 cog XL
> sprocket out for a 16 cog XL sprocket.
>
> On remove the old motor, it turned out that I had pinned the flywheel
> onto the shaft by drilling a hole that intersected the flywheel and the
> shaft, but I had forgotten that the tap I tried to tap the hole with,
> had broken off in the hole. So the piece of tap is still in the hole,
> but it has wallered it out around the taps remains such that there is
> about a 2 degree looseness now. The flywheel could also be tipped on the
> shaft a degree or so, and that was what was causing it to sound as if
> the bearings on that end of the motor had turned square.
>
> IOW the motor would be fine IF I could get the tap out, screw it back on
> tight (left hand threads too) And drill & tap a new hole, perhaps for a
> roll pin to lock it together.
>
> This brings up a question re locking the shaft into its bearings. Red
> threadlocker seems like it should work. Doesn't. Superglue seems like
> it should work. Doesn't. These bearings are a hundred lb or more press
> fit on this A2 shaft, and they still walk the shaft thru them given
> enough time.
>
> So, is there a magic glue concoction that will lock the shaft to the
> bearings?
>
> I put some red threadlocker on this flywheel and screwed the armature in
> and out several times to distribute it, then drove it on as firmly as I
> could.
>
> My old eyes can't read the microscopic and dirty text on the threadlocker
> tube, so I don't know how long till it reaches maximum grip. Does
> anyone know?
>
> And despite the thread locker, should I try to drill & tap it again, only
> this time don't break the tap?
>
> Thanks for any insight you can share everybody.
>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> --
> "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
> soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
> Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene>
>
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